fl  Brief  Crip  to  tbe 

Southwest 


IN    THE    SUNNY    SOUTHLAND 
AWAY   DOWN    IN   DIXIE 


Providence 

to  «««««*« 

Dallas ««« 


J\  Brief  Crip  to  the  Southwest 


BY 

J.  E.  C.  FARNHAM 


PROVIDENCE: 

SNOW  &   FARNHAM,   PRINTERS, 
1897. 


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Preface 

PERHAPS  it  was  needless  that  this  book  should  have  been 
made.  The  sketch  herein  narrated  was  first  written  for  personal 
pleasure.  On  reading  the  first  part  to  the  home  circle,  one  ot 
the  family  said,  "Why  don't  you  make  a  little  book  of  it?" 
Hence  the  reason  for  its  appearance. 

The  account  is  written  connectedly,  as  if  our  entire  journey 
was  by  daylight.  The  reader,  however,  comprehending  the  long 
distance  covered,  will  at  once  realize  that  a  large  part  of  it  was 
travelled  by  night.  On  the  return  home,  we  re-travelled  by  day 
certain  sections  which  were  traversed  in  the  darkness  on  the  out- 
ward trip.  Thus  were  we  afforded  an  opportunity  for  sight- 
seeing nearly  the  entire  way.  Therefore  the  story  is  related 
unitedly,  in  order  to  give  a  descriptive,  connected,  and  pano- 
ramic picture  of  the  country  en-route  from  "PROVIDENCE  TO 
DALLAS." 

Much  of  the  story  related  is  from  observation  and  from  mem- 
ory;  the  writer  nevertheless  acknowledges  recourse  to  different 
printed  works  for  valuable  data  and  facts  woven  into  the  narra- 
tive. 

J.    E.   C.    F. 

May  i,  1897. 


Contents 


PROVIDENCE  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS. 

NIAGARA  FALLS  TO  ST.  Louis. 

ST.  Louis  TO  HOT  SPRINGS. 

HOT  SPRINGS  TO  DALLAS. 


Providence  to  fliagara  Tails 

HE  PLEASURE  and  delight  of  travel  are  alike 
fascinating  to  him  who  is  so  fortunate  as  to 
make  frequent  and  long  journeys,  and  to  him 
whose  trips  are  less  numerous  and  more  limited. 
But,  aside  from  the  pleasure  and  delight  thus  afforded, 
the  educative  effect  and  mental  development  thereby 
secured  are,  to  most  people,  beyond  estimate.  Charming 
indeed,  in  anticipation  and  in  realization,  is  a  trip  "  across 
the  water"  to  visit  the  "mother  country,"  and  from  thence 
extending  over  the  eastern  continent,  and  penetrating 
even  into  the  Oriental  lands,  rich  in  ancient  biblical  lore, 
and  sacred  with  human  and  Divine  touch  of  "  Him 
who  spake  as  never  man  spake,"  and  who,  while  "  man- 
ifest in  the  flesh,"  "went  about  doing  good." 

It  is  not,  however,  needful  that  one  should  go  to  the 
fatherland  in  order  to  find  delight  and  pleasure,  and  to  be 
educated  and  mentally  helped  by  travel  and  adventure, 
for  fascinating  and  helpful  to  the  amplest  degree  is  the 
charm  of  mountain  and  valley,  of  river  and  lake,  of  for- 
est and  prairie,  of  city  and  country,  in  our  own  beautiful, 
extensive,  and  loved  America. 

In  visiting  different  sections,  interest  and  instruction 
attaches  at  once  and  always  to  the  varying  customs  and 
manners  of  the  people,  to  the  ever  changing  variety  of 
the  "  make-up  "  of  the  town  or  the  city,  both  as  to  archi- 


2  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

tcctural  effect  and  the  dissimilar  methods  of  business 
and  of  trade.  While  the  same  general  fundamental  or 
underlying  principle  governs  in  the  life  and  business  of 
our  entire  American  system  of  States,  forming  the  grand 
compact  which  we  are  pleased  and  proud  to  style  the 
Federation  or  National  Union,  yet  in  detail  the  every- 
day experiences  in  the  domestic  and  business  career  of 
our  people  are  essentially  different.  As  varied  and  as 
varying  as  is  the  life  of  our  common  citizenship,  equally 
so  and  more  are  the  variety  and  change  of  the  country 
itself,  spread  out  to  view  as  we  spin  over  the  continent 
in  carriage,  stage  or  car. 

A  trip  in  September,  1896,  from  Providence  to  the 
beautiful  southern  city  of  Dallas  in  the  "  lone  star  State," 
afforded  me  not  only  intense  delight,  but  also  afforded 
inestimable  mental  profit  both  in  the  journey  to  and  the 
sojourn  in  the  objective  city  named. 

Leaving  Providence  by  the  "  Consolidated,"  we  joined 
our  party  at  Worcester  on  the  Boston  and  Albany  train, 
having  our  own  chartered  sleeping  car  through  to  Chi- 
cago. Mutual  greetings  with  friends  occasionally  seen 
were  at  once  exchanged,  followed  by  introductions  to 
then  strangers  who  immediately  became  friends,  and  we 
settled  down  to  a  social  acquaintance  which  became 
almost  equal  to  an  endearing  family  tie,  and  which  con- 
tinued throughout  our  four  days  and  nights  of  travel 
together  into  the  "southwest." 

The  ride  through  western  Massachusetts,  amid  the 
forest-clad  Berkshire  hills,  broken  ever  and  anon  by  flow- 


PROVIDENCE  TO  NIAGARA  FALLS  3 

ing  stream  and  enchanting  water-fall,  the  homes  he  re  and 
there  of  our  frugal  and  hard-working  agriculturalists, 
the  large  and  busy  populated  centres,  formed,  in  combina- 
tion, a  picture  so  winsome  as  to  make  lasting  impres- 
sions upon  the  memory,  and  prove  a  constant  delight  for 
future  reflection.  Continuing  on,  hour  after  hour,  with 
ever  changing  natural  panorama,  the  eye  is  feasted,  while 
the  mind  revels  in  an  intellectual  treat.  Daylight  gradu- 
ally fades,  darkness  deepens,  the  panoramic  outside  picture 
is  lost,  the  gas  is  lighted,  and  we  engage  in  a  social  even- 
ing of  conversation  and  of  games.  Bed-time  arrives,  we 
seek  rest  in  our  "  sleepers,"  Morpheus  controls  our  intel- 
lect and  our  powers,  and  so,  day  and  night  on  and  ever 
on  we  roll,  stopping  only  occasionally  at  a  few  of  the 
larger  stations  en  route.  A  few  brief  hours,  and  the  gray 
tints  of  morning  appear,  daylight  comes  again,  we  arise 
from  our  slumber,  which,  perchance,  has  not  been  as 
refreshing  as  repose  in  our  bed  at  home,  yet  we  feel  re- 
vived, and  after  making  our  toilet,  take  observations  to 
find  where  we  are,  and  re-enter  upon  our  pleasurable 
journey  by  daylight. 

Although  ours  is  a  through  car,  yet  we  travel  by  differ- 
ent routes,  and,  passing  from  the  Boston  and  Albany  to 
the  New  York  Central  and  Hudson  River  railroad,  we 
continue  our  way  across  the  country  of  the  majestic  Em- 
pire State,  past  city  and  town,  mountain  and  vale,  with 
beautiful  level  stretches  of  cultivated  land,  rich  in 
harvest  fruits,  the  corn  ready  for  the  garner,  the  exten- 
sive, numerous  and  temptings  vintages,  with  luscious 


4  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

and  appetizing  bunches  of  grapes  hanging  in  abundance 
on  the  vines.  At  Syracuse  our  train  waits  for  about 
twenty-five  minutes,  and  disembarking  we  enter  the  grace- 
ful railway  station,  where  we  partake  of  a  nice  breakfast, 
then  resuming  our  trip  fly  on  to  the  busy  and  attractive 
city  of  Buffalo,  from  whence,  after  a  brief  tarry,  we  depart 
for  Niagara  Falls,  arriving  at  about  noon  and  in  good 
time  for  dinner  at  the  Tower  House.  Here  we  are  to 
stop  for  rest  and  prospecting  until  evening. 

Niagara, — the  Indian  word  for  "thunder  of  the  waters," 
—  what  a  charming  spot;  who  is  able  to  describe  it? 
Much  has  been  written,  much  will  be  written,  of  this 
wonderful  natural  attraction,  yet  its  wonders  have  never 
been,  never  can  be,  fully  disclosed.  To  appreciate  Niag- 
ara,— this  whirling,  rolling,  tumbling  river,  with  its 
enchanting  falls,  its  awe-inspiring  chasms,  its  lovely 
islands,  its  marvelous  springs,  its  majestic  wal  ed-in-sides, 
—  this  renowned  stream,  washing  the  shores  of  America 
and  of  Canada,  one  must  personally  visit;  and  to  visit 
is  but  to  admire  and  to  be  enraptured. 

It  has  been  said,  and  right  truly,  too,  "The  natural 
beauty  of  many  falls  and  cataracts  command  admiration, 
but  there  is  only  one  Niagara."  Many  are  the  delights 
of  this  romantic  spot.  For  miles  amid  these  interesting 
surroundings  the  tourist  may  wander  spell-bound  on 
either  hand  and  all  about  him.  The  famous  American 
Fall  lies  between  Prospect  Point  and  Goat  Island.  It  is 
1,000  feet  across,  and  millions  of  gallons  of  water  flow 
constantly  over  it  to  a  descent  of  one  hundred  and  fifty- 


GENERAL  VIEW  OF  NIAGARA  FALLS  FROM   PROSPECT  POINT, 


6  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

eight  feet ;  this  immense  volume  of  water  dashes  on  the 
gigantic  hidden  rocks  below,  and  reacting  sends  the  silvery 
spray  and  foam  hundreds  of  feet  in  the  air.  It  is  a  mag- 
nificent spectacle,  a  constant  delight  to  the  eye,  and  is  so 
carefully  and  securely  walled  about  at  its  extreme  edge  on 
the  American  side  that  the  tourist  may  stand  at  its  very 
brink  at  Prospect  Point,  with  the  huge  sheet  of  falling 
water  close  to  his  feet,  shielded  from  harm  by  an  iron  bal- 
ustrade or  railing.  Above  the  American  Fall  the  turbu- 
lent, swiftly-flowing  Niagara  river,  tossed  into  perpetual 
motion,  comes  tumbling  down,  the  Rapids  just  above  the 
Fall  having  a  descent  of  forty  feet  in  half  a  mile. 

The  Horseshoe  Fall,  so  named  from  its  horseshoe 
shape,  and  sometimes  called  the  Canadian  Fall,  extends 
from  the  side  of  Goat  Island  opposite  to  the  American 
shore  across  to  the  Dominion  of  Canada.  The  fall  of 
the  water  here  is  equally  picturesque,  and  has  about  the 
same  descent  as  the  American  Fall.  It  is  estimated  that 
15,000,000  cubic  feet  of  water  pass  over  the  Falls  every 
minute,  or  about  one  cubic  mile  per  week.  Above  the 
Horseshoe  Fall  are  the  Cascade  Rapids,  having  a  seeth- 
ing rolling  descent  of  nearly  fifty-five  feet  in  three 
quarters  of  a  mile.  The  great  chain  of  lakes  above  the 
Falls,  supplied  by  the  streams  from  the  valleys,  the  rains 
and  the  melting  snows  from  the  mountains,  are  ever  feed- 
ing and  never  cease  in  their  supply  of  this  vast  volume  of 
water, —  so  grand,  so  awful,  so  sublime,  so  magnificent,  so 
fascinating,  in  its  varied  flow  and  fall  over  these  colossal 
chasms  and  hidden  rocks,  on  and  ever  on,  out  through 


. 


HORSESHOE  FALL  FROM   GOAT  ISLAND. 


8  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

the  neighborly  lake,  the  contiguous  streams,  rivers  and 
water-ways,  until  it  loses  itself  in  the  great  ocean.  The 
entire  system  is  a  stately  problem  of  nature,  unsolved  and 
unsolvable,  nevertheless  man,  with  his  genius,  his  science 
and  his  mathematics,  has  been  for  ages  working  at  this 
problem,  and  many  interesting  facts  of  this  marvelous, 
unrivaled  stream,  have  been  adduced. 

Many  are  the  points  of  interest  in  and  about  Niagara. 
So  numerous  are  they  that  to  detail  them  would  be  to 
write  a  book  of  many  pages  ;  a  brief  mention  of  some  of 
these,  however,  will  be  of  interest. 

Prospect  Park  is  a  State  reservation,  containing 
twelve  acres,  with  an  extended  frontage  on  the  gorge  and 
on  the  river  just  above  the  American  Fall.  Here  stands 
the  Library  Building,  where  one  may  "  examine  charts  of 
all  the  great  lakes  and  the  source  of  the  water  down  the 
Niagara  and  St.  Lawrence  rivers." 

From  Goat  Island  Bridge  one  of  the  finest  of  the  many 
attractive  views  of  Niagara  is  afforded.  As  you  stand 
here  you  may  discover,  at  your  left,  Brig  Island  and  Ship 
Island,  while  at  your  right  you  may  behold  Avery's  Rocks, 
Chapin  Island,  Robinson  Island,  Blackbird  Island,  and 
Crow  Island,  to  which  "there  is  no  access  as  it  is  felt 
that  they  are  far  more  attractive  in  appearance  than  they 
would  be  bridged.  Lovers  of  natural  scenery,  who  admire 
the  perfection  of  these  green  islands  removed  from  the 
touch  of  man,  will  rejoice  to  see  them  remain  in  their 
present  isolated  condition,  illustrations  of  the  beauty  and 
harmony  of  nature's  handiwork." 


PROVIDENCE    TO   NIAGARA    FALLS  g 

Passing  on  we  come  to  "Bath  Island,  so  named  from 
the  fact  that  years  ago  there  were  bath-houses  located 
there."  On  this  island  is  the  office  of  the  Commissioners 
of  the  State  Reservation  at  Niagara. 

Still  passing  on,  across  another  bridge,  and  we  come 
to  Goat  Island  with  its  adjacent  smaller  islands,  which 
together  embrace  about  eighty  acres.  This  island  ob- 
tained the  name  which  it  bears  from  the  fact  "that,  in  1779, 
John  Steadman  having  cleared  a  portion  of  the  upper 
end,  placed  some  goats  upon  it,  and  afterwards  neglected 
to  care  for  them.  The  coldness  of  the  ensuing  winter 
killed  them,"  and  thus  arose  the  name  Goat  Island.  This 
spot  "  is  to-day  a  temple  of  nature,  at  whose  shrine  thou- 
sands of  people  from  all  over  the  world  annually  pay 
their  tribute  of  praise."  It  is,  indeed,  sacred  ground 
from  the  lavishness  of  nature  in  the  sublimity  of  its 
attractions. 

Picturesque  "  Luna  Island  is  reached  by  a  substantial 
stairway  and  bridge  which  spans  a  graceful  sheet  of 
water  sixty  feet  wide.  The  island  derives  its  name  from 
the  fact  that  the  Lunar  bow  is  seen  here  to  the  best  advan- 
tage." "  The  island  trembles  from  the  fearful  force  of 
the  falling  water.  It  was  while  standing  here,  on  Sunday, 
October  13,  1889,  that  a  member  of  the  Pan-American 
party  observed  that  it  was  standing  as  near  death  as  pos- 
sible. The  view  here  is  a  very  desirable  one,  and  espec- 
ially is  this  true  while  standing  at  the  top  of  the  stairway 
leading  to  the  island.  The  American  Fall  is  seen  in  all 
of  its  magnificence,  and  the  eye  follows  the  gorge  for  fully 


10  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

two  miles."  Between  Luna  Island  and  Goat  Island  is  a 
pretty  water-fall  called  the  Central  Fall. 

From  Goat  Island,  on  its  westerly  side,  are  the  Biddle 
Stairs,  which  were  built  in  1829,  to  enable  visitors  to 
descend  to  the  Cave  of  the  Winds.  A  visit  to  this  won- 
derful Cave  necessitates  the  donning  of  a  water-proof 
dress,  and  it  is  essential,  too,  that  one  has  an  experienced 
guide,  as  such  a  visit  is  not  unattended  with  danger. 
"  Standing  in  the  Cave  the  beautiful  sheet  of  water  falls 
before  you,  and  the  outer  world  is  curtained  from  view." 
This  remarkable  Cave  is  a  sublime  sight,  and  has  been 
"formed  wholly  by  the  action  of  the  water  washing  away 
the  soft  substratum  of  the  precipice,  and  the  hard  lime- 
stone rock  is  left  arching  above." 

At  the  top  of  the  cliff,  after  proceeding  a  little  fur- 
ther in  the  midst  of  the  beautiful  surroundings  Terrapin 
Point  is  reached.  From  here,  standing  right  at  the 
edge  of  the  Fall,  just  where  it  pours  over  the  precipice, 
one  has  a  grand  view.  "  A  more  imposing  sight  cannot 
be  imagined.  In  the  gorge  below,  the  Niagara  continues 
toward  Lake  Ontario,  boiling  and  seething,  after  the 
plunge,  and  for  fully  i  ,000  feet  from  the  base  of  the  Falls 
is  as  white  as  milk.  Above  are  the  Rapids,  rushing 
towards  you,  and  it  is  in  the  midst  of  such  surroundings 
that  the  weakness  of  man  is  most  apparent." 

A  charm  amid  this  charming  locality  is  the  Three  Sis- 
ter Islands.  From  here  you  have  an  unsurpassed  view 
of  the  Canadian  Rapids,  which  run  at  the  rate  of  twenty- 
eight  miles  per  hour.  Here  before  you  are  the  beautiful 


PROVIDENCE    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS  n 

Upper  Rapids,  and  the  spot  is  truly  entrancing.  Pass 
from  one  to  the  other  of  these  islands,  and  from  each  the 
view  is  admirable.  "  From  the  head  of  the  Third  Sister 
Island  may  be  seen  one  continuous  cascade,  extending 
from  Goat  Island  to  the  Canadian  shore,  varying  from 
ten  to  twenty  feet  in  height.  But  a  short  distance  along 
this  line  of  breakers  is  Spouting  Rock,  so  named  from  its 
frequent  tossing  of  the  water  high  in  the  air." 

Returning  to  the  head  of  Goat  Island,  reached  by 
following  the  road  to  the  east,  we  obtain  a  fine  view  of 
the  upper  portion  of  Niagara  river,  which  is  broad, 
quiet,  and  placid,  failing  in  the  slightest  degree  to  convey 
the  announcement  of  the  fearful  rough  waters  below. 
Rambling  about  the  island,  before  crossing  the  bridges 
to  return  to  the  mainland,  the  tourist  will  find  captivating 
scenes  innumerable  to  hold  him  in  admiration  and  in  awe. 

To  derive  the  most  possible  from  a  visit  to  Niagara, 
and  to  make  sure  that  none  of  the  almost  countless  beau- 
ties and  attractions  are  passed  by  unnoticed  and  unknown, 
it  is  not  only  desirable  but  absolutely  needful  that  you 
provide  yourself  with  an  experienced  guide  and  a  conven- 
ient conveyance. 

To  meet  the  requirements  of  visitors  of  moderate  means, 
and  afford  to  them  an  opportunity  for  sight  seeing  at  a 
small  cost,  there  has  been  constructed  and  is  now  in  suc- 
cessful operation  on  the  American  side  of  the  river  an  elec- 
tric railway,  called  The  Great  Gorge  Route,  running  from 
the  city  of  Niagara  Falls  to  Lewiston,  a  distance  of  seven 
miles.  This  ride,  for  natural  scenery,  grandeur,  and  con- 


12  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

slant  absorbing  interest,  is  unexcelled  by  any  similar 
stretch  of  railroad  in  the  world.  Journeying  by  this  road, 
which  is  equipped  with  as  fine  electric  cars  as  have  ever 
been  built,  we  are  soon  at  the  river,  and  as  we  travel 
down  through  the  gorge,  closely  following  the  river's  side, 
every  moment  is  one  of  pleasure  with  its  ever  dissolving 
and  entertaining  views.  Prominent  of  these  is  The 
Whirlpool  Rapids,  about  two  miles  below  the  Falls.  Here 


PASSING    WHIRLPOOL    RAPIDS,  AMERICAN    SIDE 
THE  GREAT    GORGE   ROUTE 


PROVIDENCE    TO   NIAGARA    FALLS  ^ 

"  the  quiet  surface  of  the  river  is  broken  as  the  waters 
plunge  in  their  maddening  course  to  the  lower  lake 
through  the  narrow  gorge  only  three  hundred  feet  wide." 
Lashed  and  tumbled  into  a  milky  whiteness,  the  terrific 
force  of  this  ponderous  mass  of  water  would  produce  vast 
havoc  but  for  the  formidable  banks  on  either  side  which 
hold  it  in  supreme  check.  These  Rapids,  in  all  their 
beauty  and  majesty,  can  be  viewed  and  admired  in  per- 
fect safety  while  standing  at  the  very  river's  edge.  Ele- 
vators have  been  constructed,  on  both  the  American  and 
Canadian  sides  of  the  river,  by  which  the  tourist  may 
descend  about  three  hundred  feet  and  thus  more  closely 
gaze  upon  this  lovely  and  sublime  sight.  In  these  Rap- 
ids the  water  eddys  and  circles  with  immense  whirling 
force,  and  it  is  so  tenacious  in  its  grasp  that  various  ob- 
jects, dead  bodies  of  men  and  of  animals,  who  have 
unfortunately  become  victims  to  its  embrace,  are  held 
for  days  and  even  for  weeks  almost  in  a  given  spot  with- 
out passing  further  down  the  river. 

A  conspicuous  object  witnessed  on  our  ride  through 
the  gorge  is  the  famous  Brock's  Monument,  located  at 
Queenston  Heights,  on  the  Canadian  side,  seven  miles 
below  the  Falls.  This  is  a  handsome  and  imposing  shaft, 
"  erected  to  perpetuate  the  memory  of  General  Isaac 
Brock,  who  fell  here  in  1813."  In  1826  the  first  monu- 
ment was  built,  was  one  hundred  and  twenty-six  feet  high, 
and  on  the  night  of  April  17,  1840,  was  destroyed  by  an 
explosion.  This  "  was  replaced  by  the  present  structure 
in  1853.  It  is  one  hundred  and  eighty-five  feet  in  height, 


•  f 


A    IIRIEF    TRIP     TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


the  base  being  forty  feet  square  and  thirty  feet  high," 
It  is  exceedingly  grand  in  its  mechanism,  and  is  sur- 
mounted by  a  statute  of  General  Brock.  A  spiral  stair- 
case of  two  hundred  and  fifty  steps,  starting  from  the  inte- 
rior of  the  base,  enables  visitors  to  reach  its  summit. 


GIANT  ROCK  ON  THE  GREAT  GORGE  ROUTE 

At  various  points  on  our  ride,  as  we  make  numerous 
bends  and  turns  in  the  road,  looking  up  through  the 
gorge  at  this  ever  interesting  river,  nothing  but  enchant- 
ment and  delight  greets  the  eye. 

We   arrive  at  length  at  Lewiston,  an   historic    village 


PROVIDENCE    TO    NIAGARA    FALLS  l$ 

nestling  beneath  the  mountain.  It  derives  its  name  from, 
and  thus  perpetually  memorializes,  Governor  Lewis  of 
New  York.  As  far  as  Lewiston  the  Niagara  river  is  nav- 
igable, and  the  boats  of  the  Niagara  Steam  Navigation 
Company  ply  between  here  and  Toronto.  On  our  arrival 
at  Lewiston,  we  have  reached  the  end  of  this  new  but 
famous  electric  road,  and  the  trolley  is  reversed  for  the 
return  trip.  Previous  to  the  start,  however,  "our  party'' 
take  positions  at  the  ends  of  the  seats  and  on  the  side 
foot-boards  of  the  car,  and  our  picture  is  taken  by  our 
attendant  photographer.  Again  we  are  off,  returning  by 
the  same  route  by  which  we  came,  and  review  the  pict- 
uresque panorama  of  the  trip  down  with  as  much  satis- 
faction as  we  at  first  beheld  it. 

Joy  and  wonder  never  cease  at  this  famous  locality, 
ind  the  eye  does  not  weary  of  repeated  visions  of  these 
superior  natural  pictures,  but  on  the  contrary  is  con- 
stantly feasted  and  gladdened, 

On  the  Canadian  side  of  the  river  there  are  many,  very 
many,  equally  enchanting  wonders  and  delights,  but  space 
forbids  narration. 

Added  to  what  nature  has  so  richly  provided  at  this 
renowned  resort,  a  visitor  would  be  blind  indeed,  and 
basely  ungrateful,  did  he  not  notice  and  admire  what  the 
genius  and  mechanical  skill  of  man  has  also  placed  here 
for  his  use  and  for  his  appreciation.  Notable  amid  the 
attractions  of  Niagara  are  the  massive  bridges  spanning 
the  river,  uniting  not  only  the  two  opposite  shores,  but 
also  uniting  two  important  nations,  each  of  whom  are 


PROVIDENCE    TO   NIAGARA    FALLS  17 

proud  in  all  that  Niagara  affords,  whether  it  be  awe- 
inspiring  natural  phenomena  or  the  outcome  of  the  inge- 
nuity of  the  human  brain.  Engineering  skill  is  here  demon- 
strated to  almost  if  not  quite  the  acme  of  human  perfec- 
tion. No  grander  or  more  sublime  locality  can  any- 
where be  found,  so  rich  in  its  facilities  for  setting  forth 
man's  talents  and  giving  to  his  inventive  intellect  full  and 
unlimited  sway,  than  is  afforded  by  this  marvellous  gorge 
through  which  flows  this  magnetic  and  restless  river. 
Hung  high  in  mid-air,  stretching  across  emptiness,  these 
majestic  bridges  convey,  in  perfect  safety,  pedestrians,  car- 
riages, and  railroad  trains  from  one  shore  to  the  other. 
One  writer  has  well  said,  referring  to  the  three  noted 
bridges  spanning  this  river,  "  Even  if  the  Falls  did  not 
exist  as  a  greater  attraction,  these  bridges  would  be  worth 
a  journey  of  many  miles  to  see." 

The  New  Suspension  Bridge,  so  stately  and  grand  in 
its  construction,  was  built  "  to  replace  the  bridge  blown 
down  by  the  great  wind  storm  of  January  10,  1889."  The 
bridge  destroyed  was  comparatively  a  new  one,  was  1,268 
feet  long,  was  of  immense  weight,  and  of  apparent  great 
strength.  So  severe  was  the  storm  which  demolished  this 
bridge,  that  its  destruction  was  total,  and  its  splendid  pro- 
portions and  solidity  yielded  completely  to  the  force  of  the 
gale.  From  each  of  the  towers,  on  either  side  of  the 
river,  the  immense  cables  were  severed  with  the  cleanness 
of  cut  of  some  sharp  instrument  deftly  employed,  and  the 
bridge  of  beauty  and  of  utility  was  swept  into  the  raging 
torrent  below.  Projecting  beyond  either  of  the  opposite 


iS  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

cliffs  not  an  inch  of  the  bridge  remained,  and  the  great 
mass  of  it  lies  to-day  hidden  from  sight  far  below  the 
deep  and  swiftly-flowing  river.  Only  the  bridge  proper 
was  destroyed,  the  huge  cables  and  stately  towers  remain- 


u 


ALONG  NIAGARA'S  LOWER  RAPIDS 
THE  GREAT  GORGE  ROUTE 

ing  intact.  The  storm  which  swept  away  this  bridge  was 
one  of  the  fiercest  yet  known,  the  wind  was  from  the 
southwest,  and  so  loud  and  terrific  was  the  gale,  combined 
with  the  roar  of  the  angry  waters,  that  the  gate-keeper 
in  the  office  within  twenty  feet  of  the  end  of  the  bridge 


PROVIDENCE    TO   NIAGARA    FALLS  iy 

did  not  know  until  daylight  that  the  structure  had  fallen. 
On  March  22,  1889,  the  present  new,  graceful,  and  sub- 
stantial bridge  was  commenced,  and,  amazing  as  it  may 
appear,  it  was  finished  on  the  yth  of  the  following  May. 
Its  length  is  the  same  as  its  predecessor, — 1,268  feet. 
On  the  American  side  the  tower  is  ninety-seven  feet 
and  six  inches  in  height ;  the  one  on  the  Canadian  side 
one  hundred  and  three  feet  and  seven  inches.  Variation 
in  the  opposite  banks  of  the  river  accounts  for  the  differ- 
ence in  the  height  of  these  towers.  "  The  width  of  the 
structure  is  seventeen  feet  six  inches  between  the  centres 
of  chords.  The  weight  of  the  bridge  is  three  hundred  and 
nineteen  tons.  It  is  suspended  from  four  cables,  each  of 
which  is  six  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter,  and  formed 
by  seven  wire  ropes,  whose  diameter  is  two  and  one-fourth 
inches,  and  in  each  of  which  there  are  one  hundred  and 
thirty-three  wires.  Each  of  these  seven  is  capable  of  sus- 
taining one  hundred  and  fifty-five  tons,  thereby  making 
the  sustaining  power  twenty-eight  times  one  hundred  and 
fifty-five  tons,"=  4,340  tons.  From  this  description  some 
conception  may  be  had  of  the  immensity  of  this  excellent 
bridge,  in  its  strength  and  in  its  completeness  of  con- 
struction. It  is  located  furthest  up  the  river,  near  the 
Falls,  and  is  adapted  to  the  use  of  pedestrians  and  car- 
riages. 

Two  miles  from  the  Falls,  down  the  river,  near  the 
Whirlpool  Rapids,  is  the  Railway  Suspension  Bridge. 
This,  too,  is  an  equally  imposing  and  impressive  structure. 
Over  it  pass  the  trains  of  the  Grand  Trunk  Railroad  and 


20 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


of  the  Erie  Railroad.  A  stock  company  owns  and  controls 
this  "  noble  viaduct."  In  1852  it  was  commenced,  and  it 
was  not  until  March  8,  1855,  tnat  the  first  train  passed 
over  it.  The  present  bridge  is  constructed  wholly  of  steel, 
displacing  the  original  bridge  here  built,  which  was  of 


PASSING    DEVIL'S    HOLE  RAPIDS 
THE    GREAT   GORGE  ROUTE 


wood  with  shore  towers  of  stone.  The  construction  of 
this  bridge  is  adapted  not  only  to  railroad  trains  but  also 
to  carriages  and  pedestrians,  the  carriage  way  being 
twenty-eight  feet  below  the  railroad  bed.  The  length  of 
the  span  is  eight  hundred  and  twenty-five  feet  from  cen- 
tre to  centre  of  the  towers, —  the  tower  on  the  American 


THE  CANTALIVER   BRIDGE 
MICHIGAN   CENTRAL  RAILROAD 


22  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

side  being  eighty-eight  feet  high,  and  the  opposite  on  the 
Canadian  side  being  seventy-eight  feet.  There  are  3,659 
tons  of  No.  9  wire  in  each  cable,  and  the  ultimate  aggre- 
gate strength  of  cables  is  12,400  tons.  The  weight  of 
the  superstructure  is  eight  hundred  tons,  and  the  maxi- 
mum weight  which  it  will  support  is  7,309  tons. 

Just  south  of  this  bridge,  and  making  a  close  neighbor 
to  it,  and  situated  between  it  and  the  new  Suspension 
Bridge,  is  the  celebrated  Cantaliver  Bridge,  over  which 
pass  the  trains  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad.  Work 
on  this  bridge  was  begun  April  15,  1883,  and  it  was 
finished  December  ist  of  the  same  year.  Upon  the 
approach  of  a  train  to  this  bridge  gates  are  opened  by 
an  attendant,  which  are  immediately  closed  as  soon  as 
the  train  has  passed.  Magnificent  in  its  proportions, 
grand  in  its  architecture,  apparently  faultless  in  its  build, 
it  is  a  joy  and  a  marvel  to  gaze  upon.  Its  mechanism 
has,  by  another,  been  well  described,  and  it  is  worthy  of 
repetition  here  :  "  Each  end  is  made  up  of  a  section, 
entirely  of  steel,  extending  from  the  shore  nearly 
half  way  over  the  chasm.  Each  section  is  supported 
near  its  centre  by  a  strong  steel  tower,  from  which  extend 
two  lever  arms,  one  reaching  the  rocky  bluffs,  the  other 
extending  over  the  river  one  hundred  and  seventy-five 
feet  beyond  the  towers.  The  outer  arms  having  no  sup- 
port, and  being  subject  like  the  other  to  the  weight  of 
trains,  a  counter-advantage  is  given  by  the  shore  arm 
being  firmly  anchored  to  the  rocks  on  the  shore.  The 
towers  on  either  side  rise  from  the  water's  edge ;  between 


PROVIDENCE    TO   NIAGARA   FALLS 


23 


them  a  clear  span  of  four  hundred  and  ninety-five  feet 
over  the  river,  the  longest  double-track  truss-span  in  the 
world.  The  ends  of  the  cantalivers  reaching  on  each 
side  three  hundred  and  ninety-five  feet  from  the  abut- 
ments, leave  a  gap  of  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  filled 
by  an  ordinary  truss  bridge  hung  from  the  ends  of  the 
cantalivers.  Here  provision  is  made  for  expansion  and 
contraction  by  an  ingenious  arrangement  between  the  ends 
of  the  truss  bridge  and  of  the  cantalivers,  allowing  the 
ends  to  move  freely  as  the  temperature  changes,  but  at  the 
same  time  preserving  perfect  rigidity  against  side  pres- 
sure from  the  wind.  There  are  no  guys  for  this  purpose, 
as  in  a  suspension  bridge,  but  the  structure  is  complete 
within  itself.  The  total  length  of  the  bridge  is  nine  hun- 
dred and  ten  feet.  It  has  a  double  track,  and  is  strong 
enough  to  carry  upon  each  track  at  the  same  time 
the  heaviest  freight  train,  extending  the  entire  length  of 
the  bridge,  headed  by  two  '  consolidation  '  engines  and 
under  a  side  pressure  of  thirty  pounds  per  square  foot, 
produced  by  a  wind  having  a  velocity  of  seventy-five  miles 
per  hour,  and  even  then  will  be  strained  to  only  one-fifth 
of  its  ultimate  strength."  While  this  bridge  materially 
varies  in  construction  from  the  two  suspension  bridges 
noted,  yet,  like  them,  it  is  "suspended,"  in  so  far  as  it  is 
fastened  or  anchored  only  to  the  firm  earth  and  rock  of 
each  shore. 

To  value  these  bridges  for  what  they  really  are,  in  their 
beauty,  their  majesty,  their  symmetry,  their  strength,  and 
their  vast  utility,  one  must  fully  comprehend  the  fact  that 


2.j  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

there  can  be  no  support  for  either  of  them  only  as  it  is 
had  from  a  hold  on  terra-firma  from  each  opposite  bank 
of  the  river.  They  are,  indeed,  each  and  all  of  them, 
marvels  of  man's  intellect,  his  genius,  his  architecture, 
his  engineering  skill,  and  his  mechanical  finish. 

In  addition  to  spanning  this  river  with  these  useful 
thoroughfares,  man,  with  his  practical  and  utilitarian 
brain,  has  for  years  been  endeavoring  to  harness  the 
immense  powers  of  this  Niagara  cataract  to  some  useful 
purpose,  and  recently  very  determined  success  has  been 
the  result.  Notwithstanding  tremendous  engineering  and 
mechanical  difficulties,  the  hitherto  "  waste  of  waters  "  of 
Niagara  are  now  doing  valiant  and  useful  service.  The 
Niagara  Falls  Power  Company  are  the  successful  pro- 
moters of  this  gigantic  enterprise,  and  the  street  cars  of 
Buffalo,  and  the  electric  lights,  too,  are  run  by  an  insig- 
nificant fraction  of  the  force  of  the  tumbling,  falling  waters 
of  Niagara  upwards  of  twenty  miles  away.  Yet  the 
hydraulic  canal  is  the  largest  ever  constructed,  and  each 
one  of  the  giant  turbines  and  dynamos  turns  5,000  horse- 
power into  electrical  force. 

But  the  day  is  gone,  we  cannot  linger  longer  amid  the 
magic  spell  of  the  one  and  only  Niagara.  W7e  must,  reluc- 
tantly as  we  may,  quit  these  scenes,  and  continue  on  our 
way.  Consequently  we  re-enter  our  "Wagner,"  and  again 
start  away  by  the  Michigan  Central  in  pursuance  of 
our  journey  to  the  southwest. 


Hiagara  Tails  to  $t  Couis 

EAVING  the  American  side  of  Niagara  Falls,  we 
are  taken  across  the  enchanting  Niagara  river, 
via  the  stately  Cantaliver  bridge,  into  the  Onta- 
rio province  of  Canada.  Glancing  downward 
from  the  car  window  we  have  a  new  view  of  the  river,  the 
seething  waters  of  which  are  sublimely  grand  from  our 
elevated  position  over  them.  As  we  pass  from  the  bridge 
we  are  mentally  reminded  that  we  are  now  in  another 
domain.  Leaving  Niagara  Falls  in  New  York  we  enter 
Clifton  upon  coming  into  Canada,  and  passing  on  to  the 
next  station,  a  little  more  than  a  mile  distant,  we  are  at 
Niagara  Falls,  Canada,  as  the  inhabitants  on  each  side  of 
the  river  near  the  Falls  have  chosen  to  give  to  their  set- 
tlement the  same  designation. 

Prior  to  crossing  the  river  and  entering  Canada  a  gov- 
ernment official  of  the  dominion  satisfies  himself  that 
everything  is  all  right,  that  there  is  "  no  smuggling,"  and 
after  inspecting  the  baggage  car,  he  secures  and  carefully 
guards  it  until  we  again  reach  the  American  shore  in 
Michigan.  The  third  station  at  which  we  stop  after  enter- 
ing upon  the  Queen's  territory  is  Falls  View.  This  is  van- 
tage ground,  indeed,  for  an  extended  sight  of  both  the 
American  and  Horseshoe  Falls,  as  also  for  a  far-reaching 
glance  down  the  river  below  the  Falls  through  the  gorge, 
furnishing  a  charming  view  of  the  restless  Rapids.  At 


:ANTALIVER  BRIDGE. 


NIAGARA  FALLS    TO  ST.  LOUIS  27 

this  station,  along  the  river's  side,  a  fine  level  walk-way 
of  flagging,  protected  by  an  iron  railing  or  balustrade, 
has  been  provided  by  the  Michigan  Central  Railroad. 
The  trains  of  this  company,  passing  in  either  direction, 
here  remain  five  minutes,  extending  to  passengers  the 
privilege  of  stepping  from  the  cars  to  the  river's  brink  to 
witness  and  to  enjoy  the  delightful  scene, —  a  privilege 


TRAIN  AT   FALLS  VIEW,   ONTARIO. 
MICHIGAN  CENTRAL   RAILROAD. 


that  is  justly  appreciated  and  fully  improved.  The  entire 
limit  of  time  thus  allotted  is  wholly  occupied,  passengers 
reluctantly  leaving  the  spot  to  return  to  the  train. 

Our  journey  across  Canada  covers  about  two  hundred 
and  twenty-six  miles,  traversing  near  its  southern  bound- 
ary, bordering  on  Lake  Erie.  Did  we  not  know  that  we 
were  upon  territory  of  another  government  we  should 


28  A    BRIEF    TRIP     TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

hardly  realize  the  fact,  as  there  is  nothing  special  to  indi- 
cate to  us  that  it  is  other  than  a  part  of  our  own  Repub- 
lic. It  is  American  surely,  and  many  share  the  opinion 
that  it  properly  belongs  to  the  United  States.  Neverthe- 
less this  vast  country  on  the  north,  like  the  Republic  of 
Mexico  on  the  south,  is  with  us  but  not  of  us.  Our  ride 
in  Canada  takes  us  largely  through  the  farming  sections, 
and  the  land  under  tillage  as  indeed  the  grass  and  pas- 
ture lots  indicate  good  soil.  The  country  on  the  line  of 
our  journey  is  rather  sparsely  settled,  and  the  homes  of 
the  inhabitants  are  not  specially  attractive.  While  there 
are  indications  of  thrift  and  industry  on  either  hand,  and 
evidences  of  frugality  and  economy,  yet  it  is  clearly 
apparent  that  the  people  are  not  dominated  by  the  rest- 
less rush  and  persistent  activity  of  the  average  Ameri- 
can. 

St.  Thomas  is  the  largest  of  the  Canadian  stations  on 
our  way,  and  briefly  tarrying  at  the  railway  restaurant  for  a 
lunch,  we  are  convinced,  by  a  practical  test,  that  sweet 
milk,  good  eggs,  prime  coffee  and  choice  fruits  are  not 
unknown  here.  In  addition,  too,  we  found  that  they  were 
adepts  in  their  preparation  of  sandwiches,  as  indeed  in 
all  their  lines  of  cookery  they  were  highly  efficient.  Our 
palatable  repast  over,  we  re-entered  our  car,  and  departed 
with  physical  satisfaction  and  with  mental  gratitude  to 
our  Canadian  cousins  for  the  excellence  of  the  viands 
furnished  us. 

The  dining  car  service  of  the  Michigan  Central  Railway 
is  most  popular  with  its  patrons.  Nothing  is  lacking  in 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.   LOUIS 


29 


the  service  to  render  it  less  than  first-class  in  every 
respect.  The  buffet  cars  are  simply  palatial,  and  the  man- 
agement and  attendants  are  actively  alert  in  catering  to 
the  wants  of  the  traveller.  It  has  no  superior,  if  an  equal. 
:  Some  of  the  more  important  cities  and  towns  in  Can- 
ada through  which  we  pass  are  Welland,  Hagersville, 


MICHIGAN   CENTRAL  STATION,   ESSEX,  ONTARIO. 

Waterf ord,  St.  Thomas,  St.  Clair  Junction,  Comber,  Essex, 
and  Windsor.  At  these  several  localities  substantial  and 
convenient  railway  depots  or  stations  have  been  provided, 
yet  the  not  very  close  observer  will  at  once  discover  that 
the  architectual  effect,  attractive  appearance,  and  ample 
conveniences  of  the  average  city  railway  station  of  the 
United  States  are  not  as  greatly  in  evidence  in  Canada. 


3° 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


Clear  skies,  bright  sunshine,  and  a  moderate  tempera- 
ture, are  attendant  with  us  as  we  travel, —  these  best  of 
weather  conditions  furnishing  to  us  all  that  could  be 
desired  for  the  fullest  enjoyment  of  the  constantly  chang- 
ing lanscape  scenery.  The  mountain  and  valley,  and 
the  picturesque  rolling  land  of  New  England  and  of  the 
Empire  State,  are  in  striking  contrast  with  this  Canadian 


' 


TRANSFER  STEAMER,   DETROIT,  MICHIGAN. 
MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  RAILROAD. 

territory  through  which  we  pass,  which  is  remarkably 
level  and  dry.  This  is  also  notably  true  throughout  the 
middle  western  states,  prairie  land  abounding  and  stretch- 
for  miles  in  either  direction. 

Our  trip  in  Canada  terminates  at  Windsor.  Here  we 
are  confronted  by  the  Detroit  river,  about  a  mile  in  width, 
which  flows  between  Canada  and  the  State  of  Michigan. 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


31 


To  continue  on  our  way  we  must  pass  this  barrier.  This 
is  successfully  accomplished  by  means  of  an  immense 
ferry-boat.  Our  lengthy  train,  made  up  mostly  of 
"  sleepers,"  is  broken  into  three  sections,  placed  on  board 
of  the  boat  and  firmly  secured.  Thus  we  are  ferried  over 
to  the  American  shore.  The  trip  across  this  river  is 
most  interesting.  Steam  and  sailing  craft,  plying  in 
either  direction,  are  numerous,  while  the  shores  on  both 
sides,  representing  as  they  do  the  two  foremost  nations  of 
the  world,  as  well  as  the  rippling,  sparkling  water  of  the 
river,  charm  and  hold  the  eye  with  constant  delight. 

From  the  ferry  we  are  landed  at  Detroit,  Michigan. 
This  is  the  chief  city  of  the  State,  is  beautiful  in  its  lay- 
out, and  highly  important  for  its  commerce  and  for  its 
manufactures  and  other  industries.  By  the  last  census 
Detroit  had  a  population  of  205,667,  averaging  of  native 
and  foreign  born,  blacks  and  whites,  about  equal  with  the 
ordinary  northern  American  cities.  The  railway  station 
here  is  imposing,  is  commodious  and  convenient,  and  in 
the  long  train  sheds  attached  there  is  constant  activity 
with  arriving  and  departing  trains.  Eight  lines  of  rail- 
road enter  Detroit,  radiating  to  all  important  centres, 
thus  adding  materially  to  its  business  and  general  inter- 
ests. 

Detroit  is  located  on  the  river  of  the  same  name,  and 
although  a  number  of  miles  from  a  lake  on  either  side  of 
it,  yet  it  may  very  properly  be  called  a  lakeport,  and  one 
of  the  most,  if  not  the  most,  important  commercial  ports 
of  the  northern  middle  section  of  our  country.  Indeed, 


32  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

it  is  claimed  for  Detroit  that  it  has  the  best  harbor  on 
either  of  the  great  lakes  or  their  tributaries,  and  is  there- 
fore a  commercial  city  of  rare  advantage.  Official  statis- 
tics show  that  very  few  ocean  ports  exceed  the  tonnage 
of  its  commerce. 


DETROIT  STATION,  SHOWING  TRAIN   SHEDS. 
MICHIGAN   CENTRAL  RAILROAD. 

The  Detroit  river,  which  forms  the  marginal  line  of  the 
city  on  the  southwest,  connects  Lake  St.  Clair  with  Lake 
Erie,  and  is  twenty-two  miles  long,  and  from  one-half  a 
mile  to  three  miles  in  width. 

Detroit  is  seven  miles  from  Lake  St.  Clair  and  eighteen 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


33 


miles  from  Lake  Erie.  Its  value  as  a  trading  port  in  the 
immense  traffic  of  the  great  lakes  is  beyond  estimate.  A 
number  of  lines  of  lake  passenger  boats  ply  between  this 
city  and  other  of  the  lake  ports. 


MICHIGAN   CENTRAL  STATION,   DETROIT. 


The  city  extends  for  seven  miles  or  more  along  the 
river  side,  six  miles  of  which  extent  is  lined  with  mills, 
dry-docks,  ship-yards,  founderies,  grain-elevators,  railway 


NIAGARA    PALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


35 


depots,  warehouses,  and  sundry  other  industries  of  vary- 
ing magnitude. 

Situated  on  slightly  rolling  land,  that  section  on  which 
the  principal  part  of  the  city  stands  rises  gradually  from 
the  river  to  a  height  of  from  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  and 
then  sinking,  again  rises  to  a  height  of  forty  to  fifty  feet 
above  the  river. 

The  industrial  interests  of  Detroit  are  many.  A 
large  foreign  trade  is  conducted  with  Canada,  while  the 
exports  and  imports  in  numerous  other  commercial  enter- 
prises are  vast.  Local  manufactures,  many  of  large 
capacity,  furnish  employment  for  multitudes  of  both  sexes. 
Lumber,  flour,  grain,  apples  and  other  fruits,  as  also  a 
variety  of  other  products  constitute  a  good  part  of  the 
trade  of  this  busy  city,  and  in  addition  there  are  extensive 
dealings  in  cattle  and  hogs.  The  iron  industry  is  speci- 
ally prominent,  immense  quantities  of  iron  ore  from  the 
Lake  Superior  iron  regions  being  here  converted  into  a 
multiplicity  of  articles  for  every-day  use.  Here,  too,  are 
rolling  mills,  car  factories,  and  many  other  manufacturing 
establishments,  of  differing  degrees  of  importance,  which 
are  unrivalled  in  the  amount  of  their  output  and  in  the 
quality  of  their  products. 

Detroit  is  attractive  in  its  layout,  although,  perhaps,  a 
little  irregular  in  its  completeness.  In  the  design  of  its 
streets,  two  plans  have  been  used, —  one  radiating  from 
the  Grand  Circus,  and  the  other  with  streets  running  at 
right  angles.  The  avenues  are  generally  wide,  differing 
in  width  from  one  hundred  to  two  hundred  feet,  and  the 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


37 


streets    while  narrower  yet  have  a  good  width,  varying 
from  fifty  to  one  hundred  feet. 

The  park  system  of  the  city  is  one  of  its  essential  fea- 
tures, the  Grand  Circus,  semi-circular  in  shape,  being  the 
principal  park  of  the  city.  The  architectural  effect  of 
the  city  is  admirable,  many  handsome  buildings  adorn- 
ing the  streets  and  avenues,  and  notable  of  these  are 
the  churches,  several  of  which  are  effectively  grand  in 
finish. 


CITY   HALL,  DETROIT. 

A  City  Hall,  pretentious,  ornate,  substantial  and  pleas- 
ing, is  the  most  prominent  of  the  public  buildings.  It  is 
two  hundred  feet  long,  ninety  feet  wide,  sixty-six  feet 
high  to  the  cornice,  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  to  the 
top  of  the  tower,  and  was  completed  in  1871  at  an  expense 
of  $600,000.  It  is  built  of  sandstone,  in  the  Italian  style, 
and  is  three  stories  above  the  basement. 

Altogether,  Detroit  is  a  magnificent  American  city,  and 


38  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

we  would  like  to  linger  here  but  must  forbear  and  con- 
tinue on  our  way. 

From  Detroit  we  travel  nearly  two  hundred  and  twen- 
ty-five miles  across  the  southern  section  of  the  peninsula 
State  of  Michigan,  the  country  on  either  side  command- 
ing our  attention  and  appreciation.  The  cities  and 
towns  through  which  we  pass  evidence  a  tasty  and  pro- 
gressive citizenship,  and  are  "  up-to-date  "  in  enterprise 
and  appearance.  Principal  of  these  is  Wayne,  Ypsilanti, 


RESIDENCE  OF  GEN.  RUSSELL  A.  ALGER, 
DETROIT,  MICHIGAN. 

Ann  Arbor,  Jackson,  Battle  Creek,  Kalamazoo,  New 
Buffalo,  and  Niles.  Ann  Arbor  is  familiarly  famous  as  the 
seat  of  the  noted  Michigan  State  University,  which  is  one 
of  the  most  influential  and  helpful  of  our  excellent  Amer- 
ican colleges. 

In  a  modest  and  unobtrusive  manner  the  Michigan 
Central  company  began,  some  time  ago,  to  distribute  to 
the  women  and  children  passengers  on  their  trains  the 
surplus  flowers  from  the  plants  which  are  raised  to  beau- 


40  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

tify  the  grounds  about  the  several  stations  en  route.  So 
highly  prized  was  this  courtesy,  that  the  simple  original 
act  has  developed  into  a  regular  custom,  which  has  indeed 
become  famous.  From  the  extensive  conservatories  of 
the  company  at  Ypsilanti  and  Niles,  Michigan,  nearly  or 
quite  100,000  bouquets  and  boutonnieres  are  thus  yearly 


DISTRIBUTION   OF  FLOWERS   IN   MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  COACHES. 

distributed.  This  is  a  practice  most  liberal,  and  one  which 
is  highly  prized  by  the  lady  and  children  passengers,  and 
is  also  one  which  is  thoroughly  appreciated  by  their  male 
attendants. 

Leaving  the  State  of  Michigan  we  make  a  short  cut 
across  the  northwestern  corner  of  Indiana,  and  entering 


NIAGARA  FALLS   TO  ST.  LOUIS 


41 


Illinois  terminate  this  part  of  our  trip  by  the  Michigan 
Central  Railroad  in  the  elegant  Central  station  at  Chi- 
cago. 

Entering  Chicago  by  train,  we  are  delighted  with  its 
beautiful  suburban  annexations,  and  we  pass  through  the 
annexed  city  of  Pullman,  famous  from  the  name  of  the 
"  Pullman  sleeper,"  from  which  industry  this  pretty  set- 


MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  STATION,  NILES. 

tlement  has  sprung,  and  which  locality  is  justly  noted  for 
the  cleanness  of  its  politics,  and  for  the  pure  and  peace- 
ful habits  of  its  people, —  temperance  and  good  morals 
being  healthfully  leading.  Continuing  on,  we  pass  in 
close  sight  of  Jackson  Park,  the  spot  on  which  the  Magic 


42  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

White  City,  or  World's  Fair  of  1893,  was  located  ;  then 
still  on  through  the  Hyde  Park  district,  another  of  Chi- 
cago's beautiful  suburban  annexes,  which  is  also  noted  for 
its  temperance  and  moral  atmosphere,  its  fine  residences, 
and  its  broad,  regular  avenues  ;  and  still  further  continue 


MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  STATION,  CHICAGO 
FRONT  VIEW. 

on,  all  the  while  in  the  city,  for  some  six  or  eight  miles, 
along  the  margin  of  the  vast  Lake  Michigan  to  the  Cen- 
tral station  of  the  Michigan  Central  and  the  Illinois  Cen- 
tral Railroads,  near  the  centre  of  the  city.  It  is  needless 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS  ^ 

to  say  that  this  station,  in  its  architecture,  its  complete- 
ness, its  conveniences,  its  size,  and  its  various  appoint- 
ments, ranks  with  the  best  in  the  United  States. 

An  involuntary  spirit  of  sadness  possessed  us  as  we 
rode  by  Jackson  Park.  This  spot,  so  enchantingly  admir- 
able, every  part  of  which  was  a  delight  to  the  eye  and  a 
feast  to  the  mind,  alive  and  active  to  the  superlative 


INTERIOR  CHICAGO  STATION. 
MICHIGAN   CENTRAL  RAILROAD. 


degree,  with  its  thousands  upon  thousands  of  visitors 
from  every  civilized  sphere,  when  it  was  used  for  and 
bore  the  proud  distinction  of  the  peerless  World's  Fair  of 
1893,  was  now,  as  we  rode  by  it,  a  barren  and  desolate 
waste.  Hardly  a  trace  remained  of  its  former  loveliness, 
glory  and  prestige,  as  the  then  pride  of  the  entire  world. 
Stony-island  avenue,  running  by  the  front  of  this  park, 


44 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


which,  during  the  time  of  the  World's  Fair,  was  one  con- 
stant scene  of  bustle  and  confusion,  and  exhibited  almost 
every  known  nationality  in  its  line  of  tradesmen,  fakirs, 
and  cheap  shows,  was  now  as  lonesome  and  as  deserted 
as  the  average  turnpike  cut  through  the  country.  Alas, 


MICHIGAN  CENTRAL  STATION,  CHICAGO. 
END  VIEW. 

said  we,  great  are  the  vicissitudes  of  life,  marvellous 
indeed  are  its  kaleidoscopic  experiences,  and  depressing 
almost  to  despair  are  many  of  its  unceasing  changes. 

Everybody  knows  of  this  renowned,  energetic  and  rap- 
idly growing  so-called  "windy  city."    As  just  stated,  only 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.   LOUIS 


45 


so  recent  as  1893  pilgrimages  were  made,  not  alone  from 
every  part  of  our  own  land,  but  from  all  over  the  world,  to 
attend  the  far-famed  World's  Fair  held  here  from  May  to 
November  of  that  year.  This  immense  city,  situated  on 
the  east  shore  of  Lake  Michigan,  is  the  great  com- 
mercial metropolis  of  the  northwest.  It  is  the  second  • 
largest  city  in  the  United  States,  has  a  population  of 
1,098,576,  in  which  foreign  born  inhabitants  are  decid- 
edly in  the  majority,  and  it  thus  has  a  bearing 
and  an  effect  upon  the  diversified  interests  of  our 
great  Republic  which  are  far  more  than  ordinarily  signifi- 
cant. The  streets,  avenues  and  boulevards  of  Chicago, 
collectively  at  least,  are  the  finest,  most  attractive  and 
beautiful  to  be  found  in  the  world,  as  to  width  and  con- 
venience, and  the  residences  and  business  blocks  on 
either  side  are  of  stately  and  solid  character. 

In  public  parks  this  city  is  unexcelled.  Of  these,  Lin- 
coln Park,  of  two  hundred  and  fifty  acres,  magnificent  in 
its  avenues,  its  lawns,  its  flower  beds,  its  memorial  stat- 
ues, and  almost  innumerable  other  attractions,  its  seventy 
miles  or  thereabouts  of  hard,  level  driveways,  is  pre-emi- 
nent amid  the  parks  of  the  world.  Prominent  of  the 
famous  statues  of  this  park  are  "  The  Lincoln,"  memori- 
alizing the  loved  and  martyred  president  and  great  eman- 
cipator, the  gift  of  Eli  Bates ;  and  "  The  Grant  Monu- 
ment," memoralizing  the  peerless  soldier,  statesman,  and 
president.  Besides  this  park,  Humbolt,  Garfield,  Doug- 
las, and  Washington  Parks,  are  simply  localities  of  splen- 
dor, exquisite  in  all  their  plan  and  layout,  nothing  being 


46  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

lacking  for  beauty  and  adornment  which  money  can  pro- 
cure. In  Washington  Park  the  floral  display  is  nothing 
less  than  a  work  of  art,  ingenious  and  elaborate,  wrought 
in  designs  unique  and  elegant,  and  in  this  respect  this 
park  is  hardly  equalled  by  any  other  in  the  world.  While 
Lincoln  Park  is  the  larger  of  these  famous  parks,  yet  the 
others  mentioned  are  prodigous,  each  containing  about 
two  hundred  acres.  It  matters  not  how  remotely  separ- 
ated these  parks  may  be  from  each  other,  twenty  miles 
intervening  in  some  instances,  yet  the  entire  system  is 
connected  by  wide,  level,  hard,  and  smooth-as- a-floor 
boulevards,  from  which  all  traffic  teams  are  excluded. 
On  these  may  be  seen  throughout  the  bright  days  equip- 
ages exquisite,  resplendent  in  their  shining  livery,  and 
exhibiting  a  grade  of  carriage  and  saddle  horses  such 
as  are  rarely  seen. 

For  a  number  of  years,  in  our  large  metropolitan  cen- 
tres, the  tendency  has  been  in  modern  architecture  to 
build  "  into  the  heavens."  As  a  result  it  is  not  uncom- 
mon to  see  in  the  larger  cities  buisness  blocks,  almost 
faultless  in  architecture,  towering  aloft  from  ten  to  more 
than  twenty  stories.  In  this  respect  Chicago  leads  the 
world,  no  other  city  having  so  large  and  compact  a  num- 
ber of  "  sky-scrapers."  In  1882.  the  first  of  these  tall 
buildings  was  erected,  "  The  Montauk,"  on  Monroe  street, 
which  attains  to  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet, 
in  ten  stories,  being  then  the  pride  and  admiration  of 
the  city. 

Numerous,  indeed,  have   been    the    erection  of   these 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


47 


since  then.  Notable  and  the  most  prominent  of  them  all 
is  The  Masonic  Temple.  While  in  the  hands  of  the 
builders  its  progress  was  watched  with  absorbing  interest. 
In  its  construction  was  a  solution  of  the  question,  "  How 
high  up  must  we  build  on  a  piece  of  land  worth  a  million 


MASONIC  TEMPLE,  CHICAGO. 

and  a  half  in  order  to  pay  rent,  interest  on  capital  inves- 
ted, and  running  expenses,  and  also  make  a  profit."  Its 
exterior  is  imposing,  not  especially  ornamental,  yet  is 
magnetically  attractive.  Entering  its  forty-foot  arch,  our 
attention  is  drawn  to  its  columns,  which  are  probably  the 


48  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

largest  in  America,  we  look  upward,  and  three  hundred 
and  two  feet  above  is  the  skylight.  Fourteen  passenger 
and  two  freight  elevators  fill  the  rear  semi-circle  of  the 
rotunda.  The  top  story  is  a  large  observatory,  and  as 
many  as  72,000  people  on  a  single  day  have  been  taken 
by  these  elevators  to  this  charming  lookout.  This  obser- 
vatory, which  is  the  chief  interior  feature  of  this  immense 
building,  will  accommodate  about  2,000  persons  at  a  time. 
Located  on  the  twenty-first  story,  occupying  the  entire 
floor,  it  has  sides  of  heavy  glass,  which  may  be  entirely 
removed  in  good  weather.  The  prospect  from  this  site 
is  beyond  description.  Spread  out  to  view  for  miles  in 
either  direction,  the  picture  furnished  by  nature  affords 
not  only  delight  to  the  eye,  but  more  forcibly  provides 
material  for  mental  reflection  which  is  inexhaustible. 
The  broad  silvery  waters  of  Lake  Michigan,  stretching 
away  into  emptiness  ;  the  extensive  lengths  of  the  com- 
pact, solid  and  massive  city,  radiating  from  every  point 
of  the  compass,  and  on  for  miles  beyond  over  the  flat 
broad  stretch  of  country,  all  in  attractive  combination, 
forms  a  paonrama  of  unsurpassed  natural  beauty.  In 
winter  this  room  is  heated,  sight-seers  flock  here  by  the 
thousands,  and  from  its  windows  exquisite  views  of  crys- 
talline, in  snow  and  ice,  enrapt  and  charm  the  eye.  To 
add  to  the  attractiveness  of  this  resort,  entertainments  of 
variety  and  merit  are  given  throughout  the  fall  and  winter 
months.  The  elevators  which  take  us  to  this  great  alti- 
tude move  quickly,  and  "  it  is  necessary  that  passengers 
should  stand  quietly,  leaning  against  the  side  of  the  car 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


49 


if  they  feel  the  need  of  support."  From  the  first  floor  to 
the  skylight  this  mammoth  building  is  a  hollow  square. 
Stores  and  shops  occupy  the  first  ten  floors ;  the  succeed- 
ing six  are  used  for  offices ;  the  seventeenth,  eighteenth, 
nineteenth  and  twentieth  are  dedicated  to  masonic  uses, 
representing  the  various  branches  of  masonry,  with  ample 
and  convenient  accessories  of  rooms  for  committees,  par- 
aphernalia, banquet  halls,  etc.  Hot  and  cold  water,  gas 
and  electric  lighting  are  supplied  to  every  room,  in  addi- 
tion to  all  other  so-called  modern  conveniences.  Rows  of 
electric  lights  about  the  summit  of  this  building  give  to 
its  exterior  by  night  a  pleasing  and  effective  appearance. 
It  is  estimated  that  up  and  down  to  the  various  lines  of 
business  in  this  building  100,000  persons  pass  daily. 
This  Masonic  Temple,  standing  matchless  amid  the  famous 
buildings  of  our  country,  is  a  marvel  of  genius  and  skill, 
was  begun  in  November  1890,  completed  in  the  summer 
of  1892,  and  cost  $3,500,000.  It  is  owned  and  controlled 
by  a  joint  stock  company  of  Free  Masons. 

The  mercantile  section  of  Chicago  is  unrivalled  in  the 
substantial  character,  height  and  architectural  beauty  of 
its  business  blocks  and  warehouses.  This  fact  impres- 
sively signalizes  the  extent  and  volume  of  trade  of  this 
large  and  influential  city.  A  prominent  business  here  is 
the  slaughter  of  beeves,  hogs  and  sheep,  this  city  being  a 
centre  for  almost  the  entire  world  in  supplying  dressed 
meats  for  domestic  use.  The  stock-yards,  so  called, 
embrace  some  of  the  largest  firms  or  corporations,  meas- 
ured from  invested  capital,  anywhere  to  be  found  in  the 


50  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

business  of  the  world.  They  are,  too,  essentially  a  busi- 
ness most  exclusive  and  independent.  Every  accessory 
necessary  to  the  conduct  of  trade,  including  their  own 
corporation  stores,  hotel,  bank,  etc.,  are  connected  with 
this  gigantic  industry.  At  the  George  B.  Swift  yards, 
alone,  5,000  head  of  cattle,  on  the  average,  are  daily 
slaughtered,  as  also  hogs  and  sheep  to  the  number  of 
several  thousand.  The  fact  that  from  this  one  house  the 
trade  with  the  local  markets  of  the  city  amounts  to  about 
one  hundred  thousand  dollars  per  week  indicates  the 
immesity  of  this  business,  which  is  forcefully  emphasized 
in  reflection  upon  the  large  shipments  of  dressed  meats 
from  here  to  the  cities  and  towns  of  the  United  States  and 
to  foreign  ports. 

In  wealth,  material  progress,  business  push,  and  con- 
stant advance,  Chicago  has,  for  a  nnmber  of  years, 
attracted  and  held  the  undivided  attention  of  the  civil- 
ized world,  and  this  fact  has  produced,  moderately  al 
least,  an  enviable  jealousy  on  the  part  of  rival  cities. 

Our  trip  from  Chicago  is  by  the  Illinois  Central  Rail- 
road, on  its  fast  vestibule  train  the  "  Daylight  Special," 
starting  about  half  past  ten  in  the  morning,  after  a 
good  breakfast,  direct  for  St.  Louis,  arriving  there  in  the 
early  evening,  the  weather  throughout  the  day  being  all 
that  could  be  desired  for  comfortable  travelling.  Pleas- 
ureable  in  the  extreme  was  this  all-day  ride,  our  coaches 
riding  easily,  and  being  seated  with  chairs  materially 
added  to  individual  comfort.  Between  these  two  cities 
our  journey  was  almost  entirely  within  the  State  of  Illi- 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.   LOUIS  51 

nois,  the  country  on  either  side  and  all  about  us  being 
rlat,  dry  prairie  land.  Journeying  south  and  southwest, 
we  traverse  nearly  the  entire  length  of  the  State,  reaching 
the  border  on  the  southwest.  Dividing  and  flowing 
between  the  States  of  Illinois  and  Missouri  is  the  noted 
Mississippi  river.  Crossing  this  river  by  the  famous 
Eads  bridge,  we  enter  East  St.  Louis,  and  pass  on  to  the 
city  of  St.  Louis. 


ILLINOIS    CENTRAL    RAILROAD. 


Debris,  wreckage,  and  several  of  the  buildings  retopped 
and  repaired  reminded  us,  as  we  passed  through  East  St. 
Louis  and  entered  St.  Louis,  of  the  serious  havoc  wrought 
by  the  terrific  cyclone  which  occurred  on  May  2jth  pre- 
vious to  our  visit. 

St.  Louis  is  another  of  those  progressive,  mercantile 
and  social  centres  which  has  given  to  our  southwest  char- 
acter and  position  amid  the  populous  marts  of  the  United 


-2  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

States.  It  is  the  great  metropolis  of  the  Mississippi  val- 
ley, and  it  is  more  than  an  average  example  of  the  thrift, 
industry,  prudence  and  economy  of  this  ever-advancing 
Republic,  and  of  the  determination,  hustle  and  success 
of  the  American  people. 

The  Union  railway  station,  where  our  trip  by  the  Illi- 
nois Central  railroad  ends,  is  the  largest,  handsomest, 
most  convenient,  stately,  and  beautiful  railway  passenger 


EADS   BRIDGE,  ACROSS  THE  MISSISSIPPI. 


station  in  the  world.  Controlled  and  operated  by  a  stock 
company,  independent  of  any  specific  railroad,  it  is  there- 
by removed  from  the  individual  influence  and  bias  of  any 
one  railway  corporation.  Each  railroad  entering  here  is 
a  lessee  in  common,  and  thus  to  each  is  guaranteed  and 
secured  equal  rights  and  just  dealings.  In  architectural 
skill,  genius  of  workmanship,  art  in  finish,  and  concep- 
tion on  the  part  of  its  promoters,  this  railway  station  is  a 
monument  imposing,  attractive,  and  highly  commendatory. 


NIAGARA    FALLS    TO    ST.  LOUIS 


53 


Delightful  for  situation,  the  city  of  St.  Louis  ranks  as 
one  of  the  foremost  in  commerce,  manufactures,  and  in 
the  arts  and  sciences.  Located  on  the  west  bank  of  the 
renowned  Mississippi  river,  nearly  midway  between  its 
source  and  its  mouth,  no  city  in  the  south,  west,  or 
southwest  can  rival  it  in  its  importance  as  an  almost 
unlimited  commercial  centre.  It  has  2800  miles  of  nav- 


UNION  RAILWAY  STATION,  ST.  LOUIS. 


54 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


igable  water-ways,  with  large  and  important  passenger 
and  freight  steamship  lines  to  the  city  of  St.  Paul  in  the 
middle  northwest,  and  the  city  of  New  Orleans  in  the 
south.  Twenty-one  trunk  lines  of  railway  terminate  here, 
bringing  this  city  into  touch  with  all  the  prominent 
populous  centres. 

The  city,  too,  is  magnificent  in  its  layout,  having  broad 
regular  and  well-paved  streets,  lined  with  ornate  and 
imposing  residences,  and  substantial,  costly  and  effective 
business  blocks,  churches,  and  other  public  buildings. 
In  hotels  this  city  is  par-excellence,  the  commercial  man, 
the  tourist,  or  occasional  visitor  here  finding  unsurpassed 
accommodations.  Travellers  of  wide  range  and  experi- 
ence speak  of  the  parks  and  recreation  grounds  of  St. 
Louis  as  of  the  finest  in  the  world,  and  the  beauty,  extent, 
and  attractions  of  these,  as  also  the  extreme  care  devoted 
to  them,  receive  most  flattering  mention. 

Good-cheer,  welcome,  hospitality,  and  a  cordial  cour- 
tesy are  emphatically  manifest,  and  the  tourist  and 
stranger  who  visits  St.  Louis  departs  with  a  reluctance, 
and  with  an  earnest  of  heart  to  repeat  the  visit.  It  is 
an  enviable  position  which  this  celebrated  city  holds  amid 
her  sister  cities,  and  delightful  as  it  is  to  tarry  here,  we 
are  admonished  that  our  trip,  as  planned  from  home,  is 
still  incomplete,  and  we  must  pursue  our  journey.  After 
an  excellent  supper  at  the  cafe*  in  the  railway  station  we 
board  our  Wagner  and  depart  on  the  Iron  Mountain 
route,  and  still  further  push  on  into  the  southwest. 


$t.  Eouis  to  Rot  Springs 

ROM  St.  Louis  our  way  is  now  south  and  south- 
west, by  the  St.  Louis,  Iron  Mountain  and 
Southern  railway,  or  more  popularly  known  as 
the  Iron  Mountain  route.  Passing  out  from  the 
city  our  journey  follows,  for  a  long  distance,  beside  the 
meandering  and  attractive  banks  of  the  Mississippi  river. 
Evening  shades  obscure  our  vision,  preventing  a  view  of 
this  charming  water-way.  On  our  return  trip,  however,  it 
is  our  privilege  to  pass  here  in  the  clear,  .morning  light. 
Our  trip,  replete  with  interest,  is  enhanced  as  our  eyes 
rest  upon  this  broad,  sparkling  river.  It  is  a  re.nowned 
stream,  fabled  in  song  and  in  story,  and  it  engages 
our  attention,  and  holds  and  delights  us.  This,  the  prin- 
cipal river  of  North  America,  has  its  rise  away  up  in  the 
highlands  of  the  State  of  Minnesota,  1680  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  into  which,  after  its  long  flow, 
it  finds  its  outlet.  First  brought  to  notice  in  the  spring 
of  1541  by  Fernando  DeSoto,  the  noted  Spanish  discov- 
erer, it  has  since  become  one  of  the  most  famous  water- 
courses of  the  world.  Its  Indian  or  original  name,  Miche 
Sepe,  signifies  Great  River  or  Father  of  Waters.  Flowing 
mostly  southerly,  with  windings  to  the  southwest,  it  meas- 
ures from  source  to  mouth,  3160  miles,  and  is  navigable 
to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  at  Minneapolis,  Minn.,  a  dis- 
tance of  2200  miles.  It  has  an  average  width  of  3000 


56  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

feet,  a  depth  of  from  seventy-five  to  one  hundred  and 
twenty  feet,  and  has  1500  navigable  branches.  A  visitor 
approaching  this  river,  or  keeping  company  with  it  for  a 
greater  or  shorter  distance,  cannot  fail  of  admiring  its 
beauty  and  its  majestic  proportions. 

The  name  of  its  hardy  discoverer  is  perpetuated  by 
DeSoto,  a  town  of  5000  inhabitants,  a  prosperous,  active 
and  happy  people.  The  chief  industry  of  the  town  is  the 
large  machine  shops  of  the  Iron  Mountain  route.  This 
little  town  is  surrounded  by  high  hills  and  reposes  pret- 
tily in  the  valley  of  the  Joachim. 

The  radiant  rippling  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  are 
kissed  by  the  luminous  sunlight,  which  reflects  back, 
in  crystal  splendor,  the  brightness  and  beauty  of  the 
azure  dome.  On  its  placid  bosom  float  numerous  craft, 
conveying  passengers  and  freight  in  either  direction. 
Attention  at  once  centres  upon  the  steam  craft,  because 
these  are  so  different  from  those  which  navigate  our  north- 
ern bays  and  rivers.  These  boats  are  not  propellers, 
neither  are  they  side-wheelers,  but  are,  in  fact,  end- 
wheelers.  Of  great  breadth,  and  of  capacious  carrying 
power,  these  peculiar  boats  make  a  terrible  racket  as  they 
progress,  with  this  immense  wheel  at  the  stern,  extend- 
ing across  nearly  or  quite  the  full  width  of  the  boat, 
revolving  over  and  over,  raising  a  wake  almost  equal  to 
a  moderate  surf  on  our  exposed  New  England  coast. 

With  the  flat  and  fertile  plains  of  the  State  of  Illinois 
on  the  one  side  of  the  river,  and  the  equally  rich  fields  of 
the  State  of  Missouri  on  the  other,  the  eye  is  delighted 


58  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

without  tiring,  in  looking  across  far  stretches  on  either 
side  as  we  ride  along. 

Charming,  picturesque,  and  indescribable,  is  the  variety 
of  mountain  and  vale,  the  numerous  streams,  the  diver- 
sified country,  and  the  towns  and  cities  along  our 
way.  In  this  section  of  our  country  the  character  of  the 
city  or  town,  either  as  to  the  architecture  and  finish  of 
the  buildings,  or  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  peo- 
ple, are  essentially  different  as  compared  with  our  north- 
ern makeup.  In  this  southland  the  streets  are  more  irregu- 
lar and  less  finished ;  the  buildings  are  less  pretentious 
and  ornate,  many  of  them,  in  fact  most  of  them,  being 
small  wooden  buildings,  failing  in  alignment  upon  the 
street,  the  effect  being  to  give  to  a  definite  locality  a 
material  lack  in  stateliness  and  general  character.  The 
people  we  meet,  while  courteous,  hospitable  and  true,  are 
unlike  our  northern  Yankees  in  social  or  business  life. 

Passing  on  beyond  DeSoto  by  this  Iron  Mountain  route 
we  traverse  one  of  the  most  charming  regions  for  the 
beauty  of  its  scenery.  For  hundreds  of  miles,  amid  alter- 
nating hills  and  vales,  mountains  and  valleys,  exquisite 
in  their  panoramic  effect,  we  speed  through  the  lovely 
Arcadia  valley  of  Missouri,  which  is  bewitchingly  fasci- 
nating, walled  about  by  the  rugged,  steep,  high,  and 
majestic  Ozark  mountains.  In  company  with  these 
delectable  surroundings  we  continue  on,  mile  after 
mile,  and  still  on,  into  and  across  the  State  of  Arkansas. 
Numerous  pretty  settlements  intersperse  this  lovely  moun- 
tainous section,  many  of  which  evidence  progress,  while 


60  -A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

some  appear  to  shadow  a  far  better  past.  We  pass 
through  Mineral  Point  and  Irondale,  each  of  which  is  a 
small  town  prettily  located.  As  we  glide  by  Irondale  we 
catch  a  hasty  glance  of  an  old  furnace,  a  relic  of  the  past, 
and  suggesting,  in  its  inactivity,  an  industry  of  former 
times. 

We  make  a  brief  stop  at  Bismarck,  a  lively  little  town 
of  1000  inhabitants,  distant  from  St.  Louis  seventy-five 
miles,  which  is  a  shipping  point  located  in  a  fertile  farm- 
ing section.  Beyond  Bismarck  is  the  station  of  Iron 
Mountain,  a  small  settlement  which  derives  its  name  from 
the  famous  mountain  standing  at  the  right  of  our  track. 
This  mountain  is,  in  fact,  "  an  immense  hill  of  iron  ore, 
of  superior  quality,  and  of  very  strange  formations." 

One  of  the  more  noted  localities  by  which  we  pass  is 
Pilot  Knob.  This  is  a  commanding  eminence,  sheltered 
beneath  which  is  an  old  down-fallen  village,  formerly  the 
home  of  the  miners.  At  the  base  of  this  mountain,  and 
scattered  over  its  sides,  are  the  ruins  of  old  iron  works, 
which  were  once  a  considerable  industry  for  this  village. 
This  business  has  long  since  waned,  and  desolation 
is  the  result.  At  this  spot  was  enacted  one  of  the 
most  bloody  and  desperate  battle  scenes  of  the  late  Civil 
War,  between  Union  troops  numbering  1120  under  Gen. 
Hugh  B.  Ewing,  and  20,000  Confederates  under  com- 
mand of  Gen.  Sterling  Price. 

Just  beyond  Pilot  Knob  is  a  beautiful  settlement,  com- 
prising a  small  town  of  1000  residents,  and  called  Iron- 
ton.  The  layout  of  this  town  is  artistic  and  lovely,  and 


62  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

there  are  many  beautiful  residences.  Of  these,  that  of 
Judge  J.  W.  Emerson  is  a  "  place  of  great  historic  inter- 
est." The  house  is  large,  built  of  brick,  and  stands  sur- 
rounded by  spacious  grounds  beautifully  laid  out.  "  The 
Judge  has  converted  this  place  into  a  charming  park, 
with  an  artificial  lake  in  the  centre.  There  is  an 
old  oak  tree  in  the  park,  shading  a  fine  spring,  and 
it  was  under  this  oak  that  the  then  Col.  Ulysses  S.  Grant 
was  seated  when  he  received  his  commission  as  General 
in  the  United  States  Army.  From  this  point  he  went  to 
take  command  at  Cairo,  and  soon  after  won  the  victory 
at  Fort  Donelson,  which  was  the  beginning  of  his  triumph- 
ant career.  Over  the  spring  is  the  statue  of  an  angel 
keeping  guard,  with  an  appropiate  verse  inscribed  on  the 
pedestal.  The  tree  is  carefully  guarded,  and  a  statue 
near  it  commemorates  the  event.  The  monument  is  of 
bronze,  on  a  granite  pedestal,  and  represents  a  soldier  in 
full  uniform  resting  on  his  musket.  It  bears  the  follow- 
ing inscription  : 

ERECTED  1886, 

BY  THE  SURVIVING  VETERANS  OF  THE  2isT  REGIMENT  ILLINOIS 

VOLUNTEER  INFANTRY,  TO  COMMEMORATE  THE 

SPOT  WHERE  THEIR  COLONEL, 

ULYSSES  S.  GRANT, 

RECEIVED  HIS  COMMISSION  AS  GENERAL,  AND  PARTING 

FROM  HIS  REGIMENT,  ENTERED  ON  HIS  CAREER  OF  VICTORY, 

'LET  US  HAVE  PEACE."1 

The  delightful  Arcadia  valley  of  Missouri  received  its 
name  from  an  eastern  lady.     After  a  day's  drive,  in  and 


64 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


about  these  charming  Ozarks,  she  was  rapturously  enter- 
tained and  impressed  with  the  mountain  scenery  and  its 
surroundings,  and  in  her  delight  "  she  exclaimed  '  This  is 
a  veritable  Arcadia,'  and  Arcadia  it  has  remained  ever 
since." 

Tip-Top  on  Hogan  Mountain,  is  a  noted  part  of  this 
entrancing  spot.  This  is  in  the  very  heart  of  the  Ozarks. 
On  either  hand  wild  vistas  of  rugged  mountain  scenery 
extend,  and  looking  northward  the  eye  is  feasted  with  a 
magnificent  panorama  of  nature.  Below  lies  the  beauti- 
ful Arcadia  valley,  with  farmhouses  here  and  there,  Shep- 
herd Mountain  and  Pilot  Knob  looming  up  in  their  con- 
spicuous majesty. 

Within  about  an  hour's  ride  of  Tip-Top  is  Gad's  Hill, 
another  captivating  site,  wildly  elegant  in  its  surrounding 
varied  scenery  of  hill  and  valley,  rocks  and  shrubbery. 
Prominence  was  given  to  this  locality,  about  twenty-five 
years  ago,  as  the  scene  of  one  of  the  earliest  train  rob- 
beries by  the  noted  James  gang  of  western  desperadoes. 

Speeding  on,  across  this  interesting  section  of  Missouri, 
we  pass  through  Piedmont,  Mill  Spring,  Williamsville, 
Keener's,  Poplar  Bluff,  and  Neeleyville.  Each  of  these 
towns,  in  their  picturesque  natural  repose,  appear  as  an 
enchanting  resting  place  to  the  interested  traveller  as  he 
leisurely  strolls  exploring  this  spell-holding  mountainous 
country. 

Poplar  Bluff  is  one  of  the  largest  of  these  settlements, 
and  is  a  lively  and  pretty  town  of  2500  inhabitants. 
Here  we  cross  the  Black  river,  and  follow  its  right  bank 


66  ^    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

for  some  forty  or  fifty  miles.  The  scenery  along  this 
river  is  fine,  and  the  water  reflects  the  sunlight,  and  beau- 
tifully mirrors  adjacent  objects.  The  amateur  or  the  ex- 
pert fisherman  may  push  off  from  the  shore  in  his  boat, 
and  here  enjoy  excellent  sport. 

Reaching  the  border  of  Missouri,  we  cross  into  the 
State  of  Arkansas  at  Moark,  distant  from  St.  Louis  one 
hundred  and  eighty-six  miles.  This  town  takes  its  name 
from  the  united  abbreviated  names  of  the  two  States  at 
whose  connecting  borders  it  is  situated.  Jealous  and 
particular  are  the  residents  of  the  State  into  which  we  have 
now  entered  as  to  the  pronunciation  of  its  name.  By 
official  act  of  the  State  Legislature,  we  must  say  Arkan- 
saw,  or  we  are  looked  upon  with  disdain,  or  regarded  as 
ignoramuses  with  respect  to  our  linguistic  knowledge. 

As  we  have  already  stated,  notable  indeed  is  the  change 
of  country,  of  people,  and  of  every-day  life  as  we  now 
behold  it.  We  who  live  in  New  England  and  the  north- 
ern section  of  our  country  cannot  fail  of  detecting  the 
marked  differences  between  our  home  life  and  that  as  we 
find  it  here.  Negroes  old  and  Negroes  young,  Negroes 
black  and  Negroes  of  the  mulatto  type,  make  up  a  large 
portion,  in  some  instances  the  greater  portion,  of  the  pop- 
ulations of  the  cities  and  towns.  These  people  are  the 
direct  descendants  of  the  race  here  in  Dixie,  who  used  to 
sing  in  their  own  pathetic  dialect  and  melody  : 

"  De  ole  bee  make  de  honey-comb, 
De  young  bee  make  de  honey, 
De  niggers  make  de  cotton  en  co'n, 
En  de  w'ite  folks  gits  de  money." 
—  Uncle  Remut. 


68  ^    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

Prolific  and  fruitful  are  these  sable  inhabitants;  child- 
ren numerous,  ranging  gradually  up,  like  a  flight  of  stairs, 
hover  about  the  doorsteps  of  the  homes.  And  these  homes 
— so  unlike  anything  known  to  us  in  the  north  to  be  called 
homes — are  a  marvel  viewed  from  almost  any  point  of  con- 
sideration. Small,  one-story  buildings,  many  of  them  hav- 
ing but  a  single  room,  roughly  constructed,  unattractive  to 
us  in  association  with  the  sacred  name  of  "  home,"  as  New 
Englanders  prize  and  understand  it, —  difficult,  indeed,  is 
it  for  us  to  comprehend  how  these  people  can  thus  live. 
What  is  true  in  this  regard  of  the  colored  people  of  the 
south  is  equally  as  true  of  the  poorer  class  of  the  whites. 
Someone  has  said  that  "  home  is  home,  be  it  ever  so 
homely,"  and  these  southern  homes  mentioned  are  cer- 
tainly homely  and  humble. 

Drawn  to  the  closest  limit  is  the  color  line  in  this  south- 
land. At  the  different  railway  stations  at  which  we  stop 
we  observe  that  there  are  two  waiting-rooms  for  passen- 
gers, one  bearing  the  word  "  whites,"  and  the  other  the 
word  "  blacks."  About  these  stations  gather  large  num- 
bers of  colored  lads,  or,  as  they  are  sometimes  improp- 
erly called,  "  piccaninnies,"  varying  in  age  from  five  or 
six  to  eighteen  or  twenty  years.  They  are  rudely  dressed, 
are  grotesque  and  slovenly  in  appearance,  but  withal 
bearing  a  happy  and  contented  countenance.  It  is  our 
delight  to  see  them  tumble  all  over  themselves  in  their 
eager  anxiety  to  secure  the  bright  pennies  which  we  throw 
into  their  midst.  Understanding  before  we  left  home 
that  such  was  "  fun  alive  "  for  the  tourist,  we  provided 


70  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

ourselves  with  a  generous  supply  of  these  bright  pennies, 
and  it  is  an  open  question  which  was  the  more  taken  with 
this  sport,  we  who  created  it,  or  those  who  strove  in  the 
scrimmage.  Into  a  dust  heap,  the  dirty  roadway,  or  even 
into  a  mud  puddle,  would  these  black  boys  plunge,  so 
eager  were  they  for  the  possible  prize  to  be  secured,  and 
the  mix-up  of  heads  and  feet,  of  arms  and  legs,  in  this,  to 
us,  peculiar  diversion,  is  a  sight  as  comical  as  it  is  pleas- 
ing. 

We  make  a  limited  stop  at  Little  Rock,  and  here  par- 
take of  a  nice  breakfast  in  the  cafe  at  the  railway  station, 
which  is  called  "  Pratt's  Hotel."  This  is  the  capital  city 
of  the  State,  with  a  population  of  40,000,  and  is  a  city  of 
prominence  in  the  south,  with  fine  homes,  hotels,  public 
buildings  and  good  streets.  Of  the  public  buildings,  the 
Old  State  House  is  an  interesting  specimen.  Classic  and 
ancient  in  its  architecture,  it  rivets  and  holds  the  atten- 
tion of  the  visitor  as  a  worthy  relic  of  by-gone  days. 
Sometimes  called  the  City  of  Roses,  it  is  a  pleasant  fact 
that  the  residence  portion  of  Little  Rock,  almost  to  a 
house,  is  beautiful  with  its  flora  about  the  homes,  from 
the  early  blooms  of  the  spring  to  the  later  flowers  of  the 
fall,  roses  and  chrysanthemums  being  prominent  in  their 
season.  This  city  is  three  hundred  and  forty-five  miles 
from  St.  Louis,  and  as  we  approach  it  we  obtain  a  good 
view  of  it  from  the  car  window.  Just  before  reaching 
this  city  we  cross  the  Arkansas  river,  on  the  south  bank 
of  which  it  is  located,  and  which  river  is  one  of  the  larger 
and  more  important  affluents  of  the  Mississippi. 


7  2  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

Little  Rock,  as  a  designation,  was  first  applied  to  this 
place  by  the  flatboatmen  of  early  times,  who,  coming  up  the 
river  from  New  Orleans,  moored  their  boats  at  a  project- 
ing rock  by  the  river  side,  and  landing  camped  out  on  the 
banks  of  the  Arkansas.  Thus  did  they  name  this  spot 
Little  Rock,  in  centra-distinction  to  another  and  larger 
promontory  but  a  short  distance  further  up  the  river 
which  they  designated  Big  Rock,  and  these  names  have 
ever  since  held.  On  the  summit  of  Big  Rock,  on  a  level 
plateau  extending  a  mile  or  more,  the  United  States  Gov- 
ernment has  established  a  military  post  of  the  first  order, 
with  a  reservation  of  1000  acres  of  land. 

Just  as  we  enter  Little  Rock  we  pass  the  State  Peni- 
tentiary, prettily  located  on  a  hill,  the  walls  of  the  institu- 
tion, "with  their  slowly  patrolling  armed  guards  and 
watchtowers,"  being  observable  from  the  car  windows. 

A  pleasant  incident  of  our  trip  at  this  station  was  the 
liberal  presentation  of  pretty  bouquets  of  roses  and  other 
lovely  flowers  to  the  ladies  of  our  party,  by  the  officials  of 
the  Iron  Mountain  route. 

From  Little  Rock  we  continue  on  to  Malvern,  travers- 
ing a  portion  of  country  of  great  sameness,  attractive, 
yet  sparsely  settled,  but  failing  to  appeal  to  us  as  desira- 
ble either  for  a  habitation  or  for  an  investment.  It  is  a 
wooded  section,  forest  and  clearing  constantly  alter- 
nating on  either  side  of  our  swiftly  moving  train.  Saw- 
mills are  numerous,  with  immense  heaps  of  saw-dust  all 
about  them,  and  these  mills  are  busy  in  the  sawing  of  logs 
into  building  timber. 


74 


A    BRIEF    TRIP     TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


Arrived  at  Malvern,  we  are  now  three  hundred  and 
eighty-eight  miles  from  St.  Louis.  We  deflect  here  from 
the  regular  prescribed  route  of  our  journey  to  make  a 
special  visit  of  a  day  to  the  world-wide  famous  city  of 
Hot  Springs.  Our  train  is  switched  from  the  main 
road,  and  we  proceed  by  the  Hot  Springs  railroad,  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-two  miles,  this  short  cut  proving  one  of 
the  interesting  parts  of  our  full-of-interest  trip.  On  this 
brief  length  of  railway  we  pass  through  a  picturesque 
country,  and  in  a  level  stretch  obtain  an  enchanting  view 
of  the  glassy  and  brilliant  Ouachita  river,  with  its  lovely 
nooks,  its  secluded  glens,  its  wooded  banks, —  the  haunt 
of  the  lovers,  and  the  retreat  of  the  nature-studying  ram- 
bler. Crossing  Cove  Creek,  near  its  sleepy  old  saw-mill, 
we  make  a  brief  stop  at  Lawrence  station.  Off  from  here, 
and  the  stretches  of  land  on  either  side  teem  with  attrac- 
tions to  our  eager,  scrutinizing  eyes.  The  Gulpha,  a  radi- 
ant, sparkling  rivulet,  is  a  companion  with  us  a  large  part 
of  the  way.  This  pretty,  irregular,  winding  stream,  now 
flowing  over  pebbles  and  rocks,  here  widening  out  into 
small  pools  or  miniature  lakes,  is  beautiful  for  the  reflec- 
tive clearness  of  its  waters  and  for  its  charming  natural 
formation.  It  is  a  tributary  stream  of  the  Ouachita  river, 
and  as  it  ripples  along  its  way  it  shimmers  and  glistens  in 
the  sunlight,  its  reflectant  waters  mirrowing  surrounding 
hills,  shrubbery,  and  moving  objects,  the  whole  blending 
into  a  panoramic  picture  of  weird  art  and  natural  beauty. 

Reaching  Hot  Springs  early  in  the  morning,  we  have 
the  day  before  us  for  prospecting.  We  are  met  by  a  recep- 


76  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

tion  committee  representing  the  Odd  Fellows  of  this  city, 
by  whom  we  are  taken  in  hand,  with  the  evident  design 
from  the  start  that  we  are  to  be  royally  entertained, —  a 
result  which  we  could  not  dispute  when  the  day  was 
over. 

Hot  Springs,  Arkansas,  "  The  Carlsbad  of  America," 
is  owned  by  the  United  States  Government,  or.  properly 
speaking,  that  section  embacing  within  it  these  "  hot 
springs,"  and  is  under  the  direct  supervision  of  the 
Department  of  the  Interior.  These  natural  boiling 
springs,  giving  to  this  city  its  name,  are  one  of  the  wonders 
of  the  world,  and  this  locality  has  consequently  a  reputation 
bounded  only  by  civilization.  No  more  interesting,  mar- 
vellous and  inexplainable  phenomenon  is  to  be  anywhere 
found. 

Although  but  a  few  years,  comparatively,  since  these 
natural  springs,  with  their  miraculous  healing  properties, 
have  been  extensively  known  and  used,  yet  their  discovery 
extends  back  to  a  remote  period.  Fernando  DeSoto, 
before  mentioned  as  the  hardy  Spanish  explorer,  in  com- 
pany with  the  aboriginees,  amid  his  first  explorations, 
discovered  these  springs  in  the  early  part  of  the  year  1541. 
As  time  lapsed,  squatters  and  pioneer  settlers  began  to 
here  construct  their  rude  homes.  By  virtue  of  descent 
from  families  who  early  settled  on  this  "  Hot  Springs 
Reservation"  there  were  rival  claims  to  ownership  of  this 
landed  property.  These  claims,  in  some  instances  at 
least,  appear  to  have  been  a  grab  game,  right  of  posses- 
sion being  asserted  without  apparent  just  reason.  Not 


•j8  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

infrequently  such  possession  was  maintained  by  force  of 
arms,  some  of  the  earlier  residents  holding  their  property 
by  a  sort  of  shot-gun  rule.  These  questionable  holds 
continued  through  many  years,  and  finally  narrowed  down 
to  three  prominent  claimants.  So  recent  as  the  year 
1877  the  United  States  Court  of  Claims  decided  against 
these  claimants.  Under  this  decision,  the  United  States 
Government,  by  Act  of  Congress,  appointed  a  Commis- 
sion which  finally  determined  these  contested  rights,  and 
fixed  a  price  to  be  paid  by  the  settlers  upon  the  "  Hot 
Springs  Reservation."  At  that  time  there  was  a  resident 
population  here  of  about  4000.  This  was  the  real  begin- 
ning of  the  city  of  Hot  Springs,  as  under  this  Commission 
the  city  was  laid  out.  The  streets  thus  established  were 
made  to  conform  to  original  lines,  as  planned  and  used 
by  early  settlers,  as  also  to  conform  to  the  peculiar  natu- 
ral topography  of  the  locality. 

It  is  well  that  the  United  States  Government  owns  and 
controls  the  landed  property  from  which  these  wonderful 
springs  gush  forth.  Embraced  within  this  entire  Reser- 
vation are  2560  acres,  the  springs,  however,  being  within 
a  limit  of  888.7  acres.  On  April  20,  1832,  our  National 
Government,  by  an  Act  of  Congress,  set  apart  and  dedi- 
cated to  the  people  of  the  United  States  this  National  Res- 
ervation as  an  American  sanitarium. 

Hot  Springs,  as  it  exists  to-day,  is  a  pleasant,  active 
city  of  15,000  inhabitants,  possessing  features  distinctive 
and  original  unto  itself.  It  is  located  nearly  territorially 
central  of  the  State  of  Arkansas,  four  hundred  and  ten 


So  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

miles  southwest  of  St.  Louis,  in  the  heart  of  the  forest- 
clad  Ozark  Mountains.  It  occupies  highly  elevated 
ground,  being  1000  feet  above  the  sea  level,  is  free  from 
all  malarial  influences  and  miasmetic  effects,  and  posses- 
ses a  climate  probably  the  most  equable  of  any  in  the 
United  States. 

In  1829  the  first  bath-house  was  built,  and  by  this  defi- 
nite means  these  wonderful  waters,  with  their  healing 
powers,  were  made  systematically  available  to  diseased 
and  suffering  humanity.  The  early  growth  and  develop- 
ment of  Hot  Springs  was  slow,  nevertheless  large  num- 
bers of  invalids  every  year  sought  the  beneficent  helps  of 
this  heaven-given  panacea.  The  fame,  the  extent  of 
use  of  these  springs,  and  the  curative  effects  here 
secured,  are,  however,  matters  of  recent  history.  In  1874 
the  Hot  Springs  railway  was  built,  tapping  the  Iron 
Mountain  route  at  Malvern,  thus  bringing  this  health- 
giving  natural  sanitarium  into  touch  with  all  the  world. 
Since  that  time,  a  little  more  than  twenty  years,  this 
thriving  city  has  really  come  into  existence.  It  possesses 
all  of  the  features  of  the  average  metropolis,  with  its 
banks,  large  and  unsurpassed  hotels,  daily  newspapers, 
numerous  churches,  public  schools,  liveries,  marts  of 
trade,  etc.  It  has  lodges  of  the  foremost  secret  societies, 
is  prominent  in  charitable  and  philanthropic  work,  and  is 
up-to-date  with  its  electric  cars,  lights,  and  varied  mod- 
ern appliances,  sewerage,  fire,  police,  and  other  public 
departments. 

Prospecting  about  the  city,  the  mountains  rising  majes- 


ST.  LOUIS    TO   HOT  SPRINGS. 


8l 


tically  on  either  hand,  we  note  particularly  and  admire  the 
pleasing  irregularity  of  the  streets,  following  the  natu- 
ral trend  of  the  hill  and  the  valley.  Central  avenue, 
which  is  the  main  thoroughfare  of  the  city,  was  orig- 
inally the  valley  running  north  and  south  between  the 
Hot  Springs  Mountain  and  West  Mountain,  and  was  the 
natural  conduit  of  the  Hot  Springs  Creek.  At  great 
expense,  in  removing  boulders  and  in  excavations,  the 


CENTRAL  AVENUE,   LOOKING   NORTH. 

United  States  Government  has  placed  this  creek  in  a  tun- 
nel, in  alignment  with  the  avenue  which  they  built  above 
it.  This  avenue  is  also  the  principal  business  street,  and 
on  it  are  located  most  of  the  stores,  large  blocks,  bath- 
houses, hotels  and  other  public  buildings.  Many  of  the 
blocks  are  of  good  size,  are  of  modern  style,  and  are  orna- 
mental and  substantial  in  finish,  as  also  there  are  numer- 


ST.    LOUIS    TO  HOT   SPRINGS  83 

ous  fine  residences  within  the  city.  Collectively,  how- 
ever, the  buildings  are  incongruous,  irregular  in  align- 
ment, and  symmetry  and  grace  are  not  apparent  in  the 
"  make-up."  Fine  brick  blocks  alternate  with  low,  dingy, 
one-story  shanties,  and  beauty  in  business  blocks  and  in 
homes  and  adjacent  grounds  is  marred  by  uncompanion- 
able, dilapidated  wooden  buildings,  and  neglected  and 
run-down  so-called  homes.  The  rural  and  the  elegant 
thus  go  hand-in-hand.  Time,  however,  cannot  fail  to 


OLD  HALE  SPRING. 

correct,  and  indeed  is  rapidly  correcting,  this  incongruity 
and  negligence.  We  are,  nevertheless,  pleased  with  the 
city,  and  find  the  residents  to  be  affable,  kind,  hospita- 
ble, and  alert  with  courtesy  and  genuine  welcome  at  every 
turn. 

The  celebrated  hot  springs  come  from  the  mountain  at 
numerous  places,  the  rock  all  about  the  outlets  exhibiting 
formations,  due  to  the  flow  of  the  water,  which  are  exquis- 
ite in  crystalline  and  brilliantly  reflective  gems.  Stalac- 


c  o 


5  z 

Z    C7 
85 

S  £ 

81 

z  > 

H   .-< 


gp. 


ST.   LOUIS    TO   HOT  SPRINGS  85 

tites,  carbonates,  and  diamonds  from  Hot  Springs  are 
quite  extensively  used  in  the  jewelry  trade,  the  claim  being 
made  that  an  expert  can  scarcely  detect  the  difference 
between  the  "  real "  and  the  Hot  Springs  diamond.  The 
immensity  of  flow  of  the  water  from  these  springs  seems 
almost  incredible,  amounting  to  840,000  gallons  daily, 
and  varying  in  temperature,  as  separately  located,  from 


ENTRANCE  TO  CLOSED  SPRING,  ON  THE 
HOT  SPRINGS   MOUNTAIN. 

ninety-six  to  one  hundred  and  fifty-seven  degrees  faren- 
heit.  These  waters  proceed  from  the  Hot  Springs  Moun- 
tain, an  end  or  attachment  of  the  Ozark  Mountains,  and 
as  they  issue,  they  unceasingly  gurgle,  bubble  and  boil, 
mysteriously  coming  from  a  source  hidden  and  unknown, 
and  heated  by  a  cause  known  only  to  the  Supreme 
Creator. 


86 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


Tanks  in  the  mountain  side  have  been  constructed,  as 
reservoirs  of  deposit,  into  which  these  waters  are  conducted 
and  stored.  Bath  houses  have  been  built  in  direct  con- 
nection with  the  springs,  and  money  has  been  expended 
without  stint  to  bring  these  waters  into  service  for  the 
benefit  and  health  of  humanity.  Hotels  have  been  con- 
structed, which  are  palatial,  elegant,  and  costly,  lacking 


BATH   HOUSE  ROW  ON  GOVERNMENT  RESERVATION. 

in  nothing  conducive  to  comfort,  convenience,  and  lux- 
ury, and  connected  with  each  of  which  and  forming  a 
part  of  the  structure  is  a  bath-house.  No  finer  hostelries 
can  be  found  the  wide  world  over,  and  certainly  none 
which  contemplate  in  their  construction  so  much  for 
guests  in  physical  enjoyment  and  improvement. 

With  one  exception,  all  of  the  hot  springs  flow  from  the 


ST.    LOUIS    TO   HOT  SPRINGS.  87 

Hot  Springs  Mountain,  on  the  east  side  of  Central  ave- 
nue. A  common  reservoir  has  been  constructed  to  which 
these  naturally  flowing  waters  are  conducted  by  under- 
ground pipe  lines,  thus  economizing  the  supply  for  distri- 
bution to  the  several  bath-houses.  Bath-house  row  is  a 
popular  section  of  the  east  side  of  Central  avenue.  It 
comprises  a  continuous  row  of  ten  bath-houses,  all  located 
on  the  Hot  Springs  Mountain  Reservation.  Exteriorly 
this  row  is  a  charm  in  combination,  and  in  architecture  is 
unique  and  pretty.  The  buildings  are  set  back  from  the 
avenue,  and  in  front  of  them  is  an  exquisite  little  park 
about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  long  and  one  hundred  feet  wide. 
These  bath-houses  are  unexcelled  by  any  other  structure 

called  a  bath-house  to  be  found 
in  the  United  States.  Contig- 
uous to,  connected  with,  and  in 
some  instances  attached  to  the 
hotels,  these  bath-houses  range 
in  cost  from  $10,000  to  $50,000 
each.  t 

One  of  the  most  prominent 
in  design,  in  beauty,  in  size,  and 
in  completeness,  is  the  United 
States  Government  Free  Bath- 
house. This  is,  as  its  name 
implies,  free  to  suffering  Ameri- 
can subjects  unable,  on  account 
of  lack  of  financial  means,  to  pay 
BATHER.  the  expense  attendant  upon  the 


83  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

privilege  of  these  healing  baths,  who  are  thus  permitted, 
under  certain  regulations,  to  have  the  gracious  benefits  of 
these  curative  waters  at  public  expense.  It  is  a  most 
worthy  public  charity. 

There  are  a  number  of  other  of  these  celebrated  bath- 
houses within  the  city  which  are  not  located  directly  on 
the  Government  Reservation.  Conception  in  appoint- 
ments appears  to  have  been  supreme.  Apparently  noth- 
ing is  lacking  to  render  these  famous  resorts  all  that 
can  be  desired  for  invalids, —  to  bathe,  to  drink,  or  in 
any  wholesome  way,  as  directed  by  the  physician,  to  use 
these  health-giving  waters.  Not  alone,  however,  are 
these  renowned  baths  sought  exclusively  by  the  diseased 
and  the  afflicted,  but  hundreds  of  people  here  visit  to 
plunge  into  these  natural  hot  waters  for  the  comfort, 
delight,  stimulation  and  vigor  which  they  impart  to  the 
system. 

Constructed  of  brick,  stone,  and  other  fine  materials, 
with  interior  finish  in  marble  and  choice  hard  woods, 
these  bath-houses,  as  also  the  large  hotels,  which  are 
in  part  bath-houses,  are  buildings  of  splendor  and  artis- 
tic mechanism.  Each  of  them  are  divided  interiorly  into 
a  number  of  apartments,  and  are  provided  with  large  pool 
baths,  ordinary  bath-tubs,  vapor  baths,  douche"  baths,  hot 
room,  drying-rooms  provided  with  willow  couches  and 
chairs,  and  all  accessories  necessary  to  the  completion 
of  every  feature  appertaining  to  a  professional  bath. 
Under  the  direction  of  expert  physicians,  of  wide  and 
skillful  experience,  a  most  careful  and  rigid  diagnosis  is 


ST.    LOUIS    TO    HOT    SPRINGS 


89 


made  of  every  case,  and  ills  which  are  invulnerable  to 
other  modes  of  medical  treatment  yield  to  the  magic 
touch  of  these  life-giving  hot  springs.  So-called  incur- 
ables go  forth  from  here  with  a  new  lease  of  life,  and 
with  years  of  health  and  comfort  supplementing,  it  may 
be,  years  of  disease  and  misery.  These  bath-houses 
have  a  number  of  attaches,  mostly  colored  servants,  who 
conduct  the  patients  through  the  various  forms  of  the 
bath,  furnishing  attentive  personal  care,  a  no  small  fea- 
ture of  which  is  a  vigorous  rubbing  down  with  a  rough  bath 
towel  which  sends  the  life  current  tingling  and  flowing 
through  the  veins. 

About  the  city,  at  frequent  intervals,  are  handsome 
fountains,  artistic  in  design, 
which  are  furnished  with  a 
number  of  drinking  cups. 
Steadily  flowing  from  these 
fountains,  through  numerous 
openings,  is  the  clear,  crystal 
water.  This  is  not  only 
warm  water,  but  is,  in  fact, 
hot,  and  the  residents  ap- 
proaching fill  a  cup  and  drink 
with  as  much  apparent  relish 
and  satisfaction  as  we  north- 
ern people  quench  our  thirst 
with  ice  water. 

The     Government     main- 
tains an  extensive,  imposing,  AN  ATTENDANT. 


are    lie 

'  -^RK 


92  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

and  magnificent  Army  and  Navy  Hospital  at  Hot  Springs. 
Its  equal  is  not  to  be  found  in  the  world.  Located  well 
up  on  the  mountain  slope,  it  is  a  structure  not  only  attract- 
ive but  elegant,  and  the  tourist  may  linger  about  it  and 
gaze  rapturously  upon  it,  or  he  may  enter  it  and  examine 
it  in  its  completeness,  the  while  he  is  courteously  told  its 
object  and  the  work  which  it  is  doing,  and  from  any 
point  of  observation  which  he  may  view  or  consider  it,  he 
cannot  fail  of  admiration  and  inspiration,  and  feel  swell- 
ing within  him  gratitude  to  the  glorious  American  nation 
which  founded  and  sustains  it.  An  abundance  of  natur- 
ally beautiful  grounds  all  about  this  Hospital  are  lavishly 
and  tastefully  adorned  with  shrubbery  and  flowering 
plants,  natives  and  exotics,  which  at  once  transform  these 
grounds  into  a  lovely  spot,  a  delight  not  only  to  the  eye, 
but  an  artistic  study  for  the  mind.  The  drives  and  walks 
about  the  Hospital  and  grounds  are  a  chain  of  enchant- 
ment, and  a  source  of  never-failing  delight. 

Residing  on  the  Government  Hot  Springs  Reservation 
is  a  Superintendent,  appointed  by  the  Secretary  of  the 
Interior,  who  has  charge  of  all  the  Government  interests 
here,  and  he  is  constant  in  his  care,  and  energetically 
faithful  in  regulating  and  improving  this  property. 
Money  has  been,  and  is  constantly,  lavishly  spent  in 
developing  and  beautifying  all  of  this  public  reservation. 

As  before  noted,  the  Hot  Springs  hotels  are  of  the  best. 
The  larger  ones  are  The  Eastman,  The  Arlington,  and  The 
Park.  These  elaborate  hostelries  without  their  attached 
bath-house  could  not  long  exist.  During  our  brief  tarry 


96 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


for  the  day  our  headquarters  are  at  The  Arlington,  and 
we  cannot  forego  the  pleasure  of  a  brief  descriptive  word. 
This  hotel  is  the  only  one  located  on  the  Government 
Reservation,  and  occupies  the  northwest  corner.  It  is 
new,  and  was  opened  to  the  public  March  25,  1893.  It 
cost  $550,000,  and  displaced  the  old  Arlington,  a  very 
much  smaller  and  unpretentious  structure.  This  new  hotel 
fronts  six  hundred  and  fifty  feet  on  Central  avenue  and 
Fountain  avenue,  it  is  four  stories  high,  and  is  constructed 
of  brick,  stone  and  iron.  From  each  of  the  two  principal 
corners  rises  a  tower  twenty  feet  square,  extending  forty 
feet  above  the  roof,  from  the  interior  of  which  observations 
of  unsurpassed  loveliness  of  nature  may  be  had.  At  the 
rear  of  the  hotel  the  verdure  clad  Hot  Springs  Mountain 
rises  majestically  to  an  altitude  of  upwards  of  five  hundred 
feet.  A  description  of  the  accessories  and  appointments 
of  this  hotel  is  unnecessary  here;  it  is  quite  enough  to  say 
that  everything  for  the  comfort,  convenience,  and  pleasure 
of  the  guest,  has  been  provided.  The  bath-house  attached 
is  simply  elegance  itself,  and  complete  for  its  purposes  to 
the  amplest  degree.  The  interior  finish  of  the  building, 
the  size,  height,  accommodations  and  furnishings  of  the 
rotunda,  the  parlors,  the  dining-rooms,  the  guest  chambers, 
in  fact  every  feature  and  part  of  the  building  is  all  that 
modern  skill  and  art  can  devise  and  provide.  Its  manager, 
Mr.  Lyman  T.  Hay,  is  a  host  affable,  genial,  and  attentive, 
—  in  the  fullest  meaning  of  these  terms  — to  the  guest  and 
to  the  invalid.  He  is  comparatively  a  young  man,  and, 
under  his  management,  this  hotel  is  a  pronounced  success. 


ST.   LOUIS    TO   HOT  SPRINGS. 


99 


Our  tarry  and  our  entertainment  here  will  never  fade  from 
memory,  and  the  Menu  which  we  enjoyed  in  the  elegant 
dining-room  at  noon  and  at  evening,  in  a  wide  experi- 
ence, was  never  more  palatable  or  better  served. 

The  social  life  at  Hot  Springs  is  cultured,  refined,  and 
enjoyable.  Visitors  meet  here  from  all  over  our  country 
and  from  foreign  lands  ;  amusements  are  never  lacking  ; 
entertainment  and  receptions  are  frequent,  and  thus  the 
social  touch,  development  and  acquaintance  of  this  moun- 
tain city  is  constantly  of  the  broadest  influence  and  most 
helpful  character. 

A  ride  about  the  city,  and  a  drive  up  the  winding 
side  of  the  Hot  Springs  Mountain,  afforded  a  joyful  ex- 
perience which  will  be  a  meditative  pleasure  throughout 
life. 

To  speak  of  a  visit  to  Hot  Springs  and  not  mention 
Happy  Hollow,  would  be  like  the  play  of  "  Hamlet  with 
Hamlet  left  out."  This  is  a  charmed  spot,  the  haunt  of 
the  ruralist,  and  the  retreat  of  the  naturalist.  It  is  not 
a  dale  nor  a  glen,  neither  is  it  a  natural  ravine  or  valley, 
but  is  rather  a  "flat  roadway  hewn  from 'the  side  of  the 
mountain."  Here  the  tourist  may  revel  amid  nature's 
beauties,  and  fancy  himself,  in  retrospective  imagination, 
in  the  midst  of  and  surrounded  by  the  mythical  gods  and 
goddesses,  the  nymphs  and  dryads  of  Grecian  antiquity. 
It  is,  indeed,  a  fit  resort  for  ye  naiads  and  ye  queens,  ye 
fairies  and  ye  Lilliputians,  of  both  ancient  and  modern 
times.  A  famous  retreat  for  the  pedestrian,  it  is  also 
one  of  the  delightful  drives  of  this  wonderful  locality. 


ST.    LOUIS    TO   HOT  SPRINGS  IOi 

Happy  Hollow  Springs,  at  the  end  of  the  driveway,  is  an 
enchanting  issue  of  water  from  the  mountain,  not  hot,  like 
most  of  its  neighboring  springs,  but  a  mineral  water  of 
high  d  egree,  possessing  healthful  and  curative  properties. 
Beyond  here,  up  the  mountain  side,  it  is  steep,  rugged, 
jagged,  difficult  of  ascent,  but  possessing  a  weird  fascina- 
tion to  the  hardy  and  interested  roamer  among  nature's 
wonders. 


DRIPPING  SPRINGS. 


In  and  about  Hot  Springs,  in  its  suburban  districts, 
are  many  other  lovable  and  attractive  haunts.  Detailed 
narration  of  these  within  the  scope  of  this  sketch  is  denied. 
Partially  enumerated  they  are  Potash-sulphur  Springs, 
Mountain  Valley  Springs,  Lake  Hotel  and  Springs,  Hen- 
ry's Bonanza  Springs,  Gillen's  White  Sulphur  Springs, 
Hell's  Half  Acre,  and  the  Thousand  Dripping  Springs, — 
each  of  which  are  possessed  of  natural  beauty  and  sub- 


102  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

lime  attractions  sufficient  to  hold  the  spell-bound  tourist 
in  admiration  and  voluntary  gratitude  to  the  Divine 
Creator. 

Overhanging  a  roadway  and  issuing  from  almost  innu- 
merable crevices  in  the  rocky  ledge,  the  Thousand  Drip- 
ping Springs  gush  and  trickle,  each,  apparently,  represent- 
ing a  separate  spring. 


HELL'S  HALF  ACRE. 


Hell's  Half  Acre  is  marvellously  grand  in  its  fated 
loneliness,  and  is  a  spot  majestic  in  its  original  grandeur. 
Comprising  an  acre  or  thereabouts,  it  is  not  a  chasm  but  a 
depression,  a  yawning  abyss,  sinking  to  a  depth  of  from 
ten  to  thirty  feet  below  the  earth's  surface.  Huge  boul- 
ders, jagged  rocks — multitudinous  in  shape,  color,  and 


ST.    LOUIS    TO   HOT   SPRINGS  io^ 

kind — brush  and  shrubbery,  combine  in  presenting  a  site 
captivating  alike  for  the  naturalist  and  visitor,  which 
is  indescribably  wild  and  bewitching. 

Opportunities  for  horse-back  riding  and  for  carriage 
drives  are  of  the  most  fascinating  sort  at  Hot  Springs. 
The  variety  of  the  turn-outs  and  the  equestrian  equipages 
are  pleasingly  attractive  for  their  dissimilarity, —  their  ele- 
gance and  their  rudeness.  The  donkey  rider  or  driver  is 


DONKEY  DRIVERS  AT  THE  SPRINGS. 

apparently  as  much  "  in  it,"  for  the  real  joy  of  the  ride,  as 
is  he  who,  nattily  and  prettily  attired,  sits  astride  the 
graceful  saddle-horse,  or  he  who,  in  his  broadcloth  and 
silk  hat,  draws  the  reins  over  the  finest  liveried  tandem 
or  span. 

This  is  truly  one  of  the  many  entrancing  haunts  for  the 
tourist  in  our  broad  and  loved  America,  and  is  interest- 
ingly romantic  for  all  that  it  affords  of  natural  beauty  and 


io4 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


man's  artistic  genius,  both  in  the  city  of  Hot  Springs  and 
in  its  environs. 

But  evening  has  come,  we  say  good-bye  at  the  railway 
station  to  our  committee  of  friends  who  have  made  the 
day  so  pleasant  and  instructive  to  us;  the  conductor 
shouts  "  all  aboard,"  we  are  off,  and  soon  are  back  to 
Malvern,  where,  striking  the  main  road,  we  continue  by 
the  Iron  Mountain  route  still  further  towards  the  south- 
west. 


OF  WHICH  MANY  ARE  SEEN   IN  DIXIE. 


fict  Springs  to  Dallas 

VENING  is  well  advanced  as  we  leave  Malvern, 
with  Dallas,  the  objective  city  towards  which 
we  are  journeying,  but  about  twelve  hours'  ride 
ahead  of  us.  Each  revolution  of  our  car  wheels, 
as  we  glide  along,  seems  in  concert  to  say, — "  far-away, 
far-away,  far-away," —  and  in  the  imaginative  echo  we 
fully  realize  the  fact  that  home  and  our  every-day  per- 
sonal interests  are  many  miles  back  of  us. 

Continuing  on  from  Malvern,  darkness  denies  us  a 
view  of  the  landscape,  which,  however,  we  obtain  on  our 
way  back,  several  days  later,  as  we  then  pass  here  by  day- 
light. We  find  that  we  ride  through  a  wooded  country,  and 
indications  point  to  a  once  large  growth  of  timber,  which 
must  have  been  a  prominent  industrial  factor  here,  but 
the  tireless  axeman  has  felled  most  of  the  trees,  and,  as 
a  result,  rough,  stumpy  land  is  all  about  us.  Something 
of  this  industry  still  remains,  and  saw-mills  in  operation 
are  quite  frequent,  but  these,  as  apparently  conducted,  do 
not  manifest  an  over-thriving  business.  Dull  and  quiet 
indeed  does  the  whole  neighborhood  appear,  and  but 
little  inspiration  is  imparted.  To  add  to  the  evident 
quietude  of  the  entire  surroundings,  lazy  old  mules  mope 
listlessly  about  in  the  unfertile  pastures,  or  stand  at  inter- 
vals, sleepily  indolent,  unmoved  by  our  passing  train,  and 
apparently  oblivious  to  all  adjacent  objects,  and  stupidly 


I06  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

indifferent  to  all  environments.  There  is,  nevertheless, 
a  happy  exception  to  this  almost  universal  dearth  and 
inactivity.  Here  and  there,  lots  cleared  of  stumps  and 
stones,  show  a  luxuriant  growth  of  fruits,  berries,  vegeta- 
bles, and  other  agricultural  products,  which  betokens  a 
thrift  and  a  frugality  which  is  at  once  appreciated  and 
commended. 

These  large  States  in  the  southwest,  through  which  we 
journey,  with  the  many  miles  of  unoccupied  land,  with 
the  occasional  small  settlements  through  which  we  pass, 
make  a  decided  effect  upon  us  in  contrast  with  the  thickly 
settled  and  busy  portions  of  our  familiar  north.  Low, 
one-story  buildings  are,  in  the  towns  here,  the  rule  rather 
than  the  exception,  and  these  buildings,  with  an  occa- 
sional taller  and  more  impressive  neighbor,  are  unpreten- 
tious and  irregular.  The  so-called  streets  appear  to  us 
more  like  ungraded  highways,  and  there  is  a  lack  of  har- 
mony in  design,  finish,  and  alignment.  Yet  in  this  incon- 
gruity there  is  a  charm,  the  variety  of  architecture  is  an 
attraction,  and  the  apparent  neglect  of  survey  and 
contour  is  of  itself  an  interesting  feature. 

Here  the  climate  is  warm,  the  houses  are  without  base- 
ments, and  are  set  on  brick  pillars  or  wooden  posts — 
mostly  the  latter  —  the  doors  of  the  homes  are  open,  pre- 
senting to  us  a  "  homely  home  "  interior,  and  the  residents 
about  the  doorsteps  and  around  the  premises,  in  dress 
and  in  manners,  are  to  us  of  far  different  domestic 
appearance  than  we  are  accustomed  to.  In  these  hum- 
ble, small,  low  homes,  whites  and  blacks  live  together,  as 


I08  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

neighbors,  in  evident  acclimation,  and  appear  to  be  a  con- 
tented people. 

Our  large  department  stores,  mammoth  groceries,  tall 
and  stately  blocks  filled  with  the  various  lines  of  business 
offices,  in  the  large  towns  and  cities  with  which  we  are 
familiar,  impress  us,  as  never  before,  with  their  magnifi- 
cence and  their  industrial  significance,  as  we  now,  in 
these  towns  in  our  southwest,  observe  so  many  rude,  rough, 
one-story,  one-room,  wooden  buildings,  with  a  sign  over 
the  entrance  reading,  respectively,  "  Dry  Goods,"  "  Gro- 
ceries," and  the  like.  The  contrast  is  painfully  strik- 
ing. 

It  is  to  be  remembered,  however,  that  in  a  most  import- 
ant sense,  this  is  a  new  section  of  country,  and  that  a  new 
life  is  opening  up  to  this  people  under  conditions  diamet- 
rically opposite  to  such  as  have  been  previously  dominant 
here.  While  the  differences  noted  in  the  people  and  in 
the  make-up  of  these  settlements  are  true,  it  is  yet  never- 
theless undeniably  true,  that  there  are  here  in  this  south- 
west many  buildings  of  modern  design,  with  evidences  of 
business  push  and  success,  as  also  pretty  and  well 
improved  homes,  the  whole  signifying  a  progressive  citi- 
zenship, and  auguring  for  the  future  a  solid  and  perma 
nent  growth.  We  are  impressed  and  delighted,  as  we 
alight  for  a  few  moments  as  the  train  stops  at  different 
stations,  to  meet  and  talk  with  the  residents,  and  we 
detect  in  them  a  hospitable,  kind,  and  courteous  people. 

Another,  to  us,  strange  sight,  novel  and  attractive, 
greets  our  ever  insatiate  vision.  Almost  all  the  way, 


no  *    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

through  the  country  districts,  since  leaving  Malvern,  we 
behold  in  the  open  lots,  in  the  highways,  by  the  homes, 
and  even  along  the  line  of  the  railway  by  which  we  travel* 
large  numbers  of  black,  razor-back  hogs,  roaming  and 
feeding,  indifferent  to  all  about  them,  and  apparently  alto- 
gether "  at  home "  wherever  they  choose  to  meander. 
This,  of  course,  as  it  seems  to  us,  is  a  direct  breach  of 
domestic  existence,  and  such  as  at  home  would  be  prohib- 
ited by  law. 

The  radiant,  sparkling,  reflective  Ouachita  river,  before 
mentioned,  is  again  a  companion  with  us,  and  we  cross  it 
at  Arkadelphia,  where  we  make  a  brief  tarry  at  the  rail- 
way station.  We  obtain  a  good  view  of  this  town,  and 
are  most  favorably  impressed  with  it.  To  all  appear- 
ances it  is  a  flourishing  settlement,  evidencing  a  prosper- 
ous and  peaceful  community. 

Continuing  on,  we  enter  a  pine  grove,  and  we  pass 
through  Gurdon,  Prescott  and  Hope,  each  of  which  are 
delightful  for  situation  amid  the  surrounding  forest.  We 
admire  the  tall,  straight,  majestic  trees  for  their  beauty, 
and  they  indicate  a  comfortable  retreat.  The  density 
of  this  forest  is  pleasantly  relieved  by  occasional  clear- 
ings, dotted  with  fields  under  cultivation,  rich  in  fruitage, 
and  showing  care  and  skill  in  tillage.  The  lumbering 
interests  are  prominent  in  this  section,  and  large  mills 
and  lumber  yards  are  in  evidence  on  either  side  of  our 
train. 

To  add  to  the  charm  of  the  diversified  landscape, 
numerous  fertile  cotton  fields  engage  and  hold  our  atten- 


H2  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

tion.  These  are  a  novelty  peculiarly  fascinating  to  our 
eyes,  unaccustomed,  as  they  are,  to  such  scenes.  The 
cotton  plants,  covering  the  fields,  are  in  different  stages 
of  maturity,  and  are  graceful  in  their  variety  of  bud,  blos- 
som and  fruit.  The  bud  is,  in  appearance,  a  hard,  green 
ball,  while  the  bloom  is  lovely  in  its  color  of  magenta  or 
light  purple,  with  its  delicate  streaks  of  lighter  and  darker 
shades.  At  maturity  we  find  in  place  of  the  blossom, 
a  bunch  of  pure,  soft  cotton,  enclosing  the  cotton  seed. 
As  we  look  at  this  soft,  downy  ball,  we  instinctively  turn, 
for  a  comparison,  to  the  cotton  garments  which  we  wear, 
and,  as  mystical  as  it  appears,  we  nevertheless  fully  realize 
that  these  same  cotton  garments  are  undeniably  a  vegeta- 
ble product.  Not  here,  but  before  we  return  home,  we  are 
permitted  to  obtain,  from  the  cotton  field,  samples  of  this 
wonderful  plant  in  its  different  stages  of  growth.  Work- 
ing hither  and  yon,  in  these  pretty  fields  of  varying  color, 
"the  cotton-picking  darkies  "  labor,  and  furnish  by  their 
presence,  mingled  with  the  natural  beauty  of  the  scene,  a 
real  picture  in  color  which  is  very  gratifying.  These 
persistent,  tireless  toilers,  gather  the  cotton  into  baskets 
depositing  it  at  a  convenient  spot  on  the  field  in  one  gen- 
eral heap,  which,  at  a  distance,  appears  much  like  a  snow- 
bank, —  the  latter,  however,  being  something  quite 
unknown  in  this  locality. 

Four  hundred  and  seventy-one  miles  from  St.  Louis  we 
arrive  at  Fulton,  a  small,  typical  southern  town.  Here 
we  cross  the  Red  river,  one  of  the  prominent  water- 
courses of  the  southwest,  and  the  lowest  western  branch 


m  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

of  the  matchless  Mississippi.  This  river  is  2100  miles 
long,  and  loses  itself  in  the  Mississippi  three  hundred  and 
forty-one  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  "  father  of 
waters."  It  makes  the  boundary  line  between  New  Mex- 
ico and  Texas,  and  for  sixty  miles  above  its  mouth  it  is 
especially  picturesque  in  its  flow  between  perpendicular 
banks  ranging  from  six  hundred  to  eight  hundred  feet  in 
height.  Season  has  much  to  do  with  navigation  upon 
this  river,  and  for  eight  months  of  the  year  it  is  navigable 
as  far  as  Shreveport,  Louisiana.  As  we  cross  it,  and 
glance  down  upon  its  waters,  we  readily  discover  the  sig- 
nificance of  its  name,  derived,  as  it  is,  from  the  reddish 
soil  over  and  through  which  it  flows,  and  with  which  its 
waters  are  impregnated.  Old,  dilapidated,  and  forsaken 
little  steamboats,  shadowing  in  their  worn-out  appear- 
ance indications  of  better  days,  can  occasionally  be  seen 
at  Fulton,  moored  along  side  the  bank,  the  only  craft, 
being  built  for  the  service,  that  could  ascend  this  river  to 
this  point.  Railroads  have  despoiled  these  "  navigators  " 
of  their  occupation,  and  the  few  that  remain  exist  simply 
as  relics  of  what  they  have  been  and  what  they  were  to 
commerce  here.  By  their  agency,  Fulton  once  enjoyed 
a  considerable  commercial  importance,  and  by  them  the 
large  cotton  crop  of  the  "  Red  river  bottoms "  was 
freighted  for  distribution  to  different  markets. 

Leaving  Fulton  we  proceed  for  nineteen  miles  and  then 
stop  before  the  imposing  railway  station  at  Texakarna. 
We  are  now  four  hundred  and  ninety  miles  from  St. 
Louis,  and  are  at  the  border  of  the  two  great  States  of 


HOT   SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS  U^ 

Arkansas  and  Texas.  In  fact,  as  our  train  halts,  about 
half  of  it  is  in  each  of  the  two  States.  This,  the  so-called 
gateway  to  the  further  west  and  southwest,  is  one  of  the 
most  important  railway  centres  of  the  extensive  south- 
west. Its  name,  as  is  at  once  suggested,  is  derived  from 
the  two  States  which  it  separates ;  or,  singularly  as  it 
may  appear,  and  more  properly  speaking,  the  two  States 
which  it  unites  ;  for  it  is  in  fact  a  united  territory,  and 


RAILWAY  STATION,  TEXAKARNA.     IRON  MOUNTAIN   ROUTE. 

in  reality  two  cities,  each  bearing  the  same  name,  and 
respectively  located  in  the  States  of  Arkansas  and  Texas. 
Each  city  has  its  separate  municipal  government,  and  the 
mayor  of  either  city,  thus  peculiarly  situated  in  allied  yet 
disunited  communities,  is  supreme  in  his  vested  authority 
within  his  individual  settlement,  and  may  yet  come 
together  for  conviviality  and  social  fellowship  under  con- 


n6  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

ditions  and  circumstances  dissimilar  to  any  other  Ameri- 
can populated  centre.  The  railway  station  at  Texakarna 
is  of  brick,  symmetrical  in  its  architecture,  is  ample  and 
convenient,  and  it  is  one  of  the  most  ornate  and  attrac- 
tive in  the  southwest.  Midway  of  its  length  is  a  wide, 
high  archway,  for  passage  of  pedestrians  and  carriages, 
which  marks  the  border  line  between  the  two  States 
which  hold  this  station  in  joint  possession.  Taking  a 
dinner  here  in  the  cafe,  we  found  the  table  service  to  be 
excellent,  and  its  cuisine  of  the  best. 

Entering  Texas,  and  proceeding  southwest  and  then 
nearly  west,  for  a  distance  of  two  hundred  and  twenty-two 
miles,  we  reach  Dallas,  "  the  pride  of  the  Lone  Star  State," 
the  city  towards  which  we  have  travelled  nearly  2000 
miles  since  leaving  home.  From  Texakarna  to  Dallas 
we  pass  through,  as  principal  towns,  Jefferson,  Marshall, 
Longview,  and  Mineola,  each  of  which  are  characteristi- 
cally typical  of  this  section.  The  topography  of  the 
country  passed  is  similar  to  that  of  other  parts  of  this 
southland,  of  which  we  have  previously  spoken.  Not- 
withstanding the  long  distance  covered,  the  many  objects 
of  constant  absorbing  interest  observed  en-route,  these  ter- 
minating miles  of  our  trip^are  filled  with  never  ceasing 
dissolving  views  which  are  delightfully  entertaining. 

Texas  is  a  magnificent  State  from  many  points  of  con- 
sideration. It  has  a  proud  heritage,  and  has  an  honora- 
ble history  in  which  the  native  Texan  exultingly  glories. 
It  is  separated  from  the  Republic  of  Mexico  by  the  majes- 
tic Rio  Grande,  which  flows  between  and  washes  the 


HOT  SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


117 


shores  of  these  two  vast  divisions  of  country.  One  of 
the  southwestern  border  States,  Texas  enjoys  the  proud 
distinction  of  being  the  largest  in  the  Federal  Union. 
For  more  than  a  century  and  a  half  it  was  owned  by 
Spain,  and  was  governed  by  the  Spaniards.  After  a 
determined  and  bloody  conflict,  struggling  for  independ- 
ence from  Spanish  rule,  it  became  an  imperial  independ- 
ent Republic  in  the  spring  of  1836,  and  floated  its  own 
separate  flag  enclosing  its  individual  "  lone  star."  It 
continued  as  a  distinct  Republic  until  admitted  as  one  of 
the  federated  States  of  the  Union  in  1845.  Espousing 
the  cause  of  the  Southern  Confederacy,  Texas  seceded 
from  the  Union  February  i,  1861,  and  was  readmitted 
in  1870. 

This  immense  State  measures  265,780  square  miles, 
embracing  175,587,840  acres.  Figures  are  easily  written 
and  in  speech  roll  from  the  tongue  without  much  effort, 
but  reflection  upon  the  vastness  of  the  area  of  the  State 
of  Texas  is  singularly  surprising  and  impressive.  Some 
conception  of  the  great  extent  of  territory  of  this  State 
may  be  had  when  we  consider  that  if  the  States  of  Maine, 
New  Hampshire,  Vermont,  Massachusetts,  Rhode  Island, 
Connecticut,  New  York,  Pennsylvania,  New  Jersey,  Del- 
aware, Maryland,  Ohio  and  Indiana  were  united  into  one 
block  they  would  fall  short  by  several  hundred  square 
miles  of  making  the  total  area  of  Texas.  Texas  would 
make  two  hundred  and  twelve  States  the  size  of  Rhode 
Island,  and  yet  leave  land  enough  to  make  more  than  one- 
half  of  another  one.  Russia,  of  the  European  powers, 


n8  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

alone  exceeds  it  in  size  ;  and  it  is  larger,  were  they  all 
united,  than  the  kingdoms  of  England,  Ireland,  Scotland, 
Wales,  Holland,  Belgium,  Denmark,  Switzerland,  Greece, 
and  Turkey. 

The  State  of  Texas  has  a  population  representing  in 
nativity  nearly  every  State  in  the  Union,  with  a  good  pro- 
portion of  emigrants  from  most  every  foreign  land.  Its 
soil  for  the  most  part  is  of  a  thick,  black,  greasy  consist- 
ency, and  is  very  rich  and  fruitful.  For  many  vegetarian 
purposes  it  requires  no  other  fertilizer  than  its  own  abund- 
ant fecundity.  The  State  is  also  prolific  in  ores,  min- 
erals, limes,  etc.,  these  natural  deposits  being  of  the  best 
anywhere  found.  Its  growth  of  cotton,  tobacco,  sugar- 
cane, berries,  fruits,  and  other  vegetable  products  gives  it 
a  valuable  and  a  leading  commercial  position. 

Numerous  manufacturing  establishments,  founderies, 
and  other  branches  of  trade,  including  cotton  mills,  grain 
elevators,  meat-packing  houses,  stores  and  offices,  place 
this  State  foremost  in  industrial  pursuits.  Fish  are 
plentiful  in  its  many  lakes,  rivers,  and  water-courses,  and 
various  kinds  of  game  are  found  in  almost  every  county 
of  the  State .  It  has  excellent  water  supplies  all  over  the 
State,  has  a  number  of  artesian  wells  of  great  capacity, 
which  yield  a  water  as  clear  as  crystal,  and  which  is 
prized  for  its  purity  for  domestic  purposes. 

Excellent  provision  has  been  made  for  the  education  of 
its  citizens,  the  State  possessing  a  large  available  school 
fund  of  upwards  of  $70,000,000,  as  an  endowment  for 
this  purpose. 


HOT  SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS  119 

In  a  variety  of  ways,  this  sovereign  State,  amid  the  gal- 
axy of  States,  is  prominent  with  an  honorable  prestige 
which  presages,  due  to  its  natural  resources  and  the 
genius  of  its  citizens,  a  proud  rank  in  the  future  among 
the  civilized  peoples  of  the  world. 

The  city  of  Dallas,  where  we  sojourn  for  a  week,  is  the 
county  seat  of  Dallas  county.  Located  in  the  northern 
part  of  this  prodigous  State,  this  county  is  one  of  the 
third  tier  of  counties  south  of  the  Red  river.  As  a  county 


RESIDENCE  OF  G.  M.  DILLEY,     DALLAS. 


120  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

it  stands  first  in  taxable  values,  and  thus  is  the  wealthiest 
and  is  the  most  populous  of  either  of  the  counties  in  the 
State.  Its  altitude  is  about  five  hundred  feet  above  sea 
level.  Both  the  city  and  county  were  named  in  honor  of 
the  late  Hon.  George  M.  Dallas,  of  Pennsylvania,  Vice- 
President  of  the  United  States  during  the  administration 
of  James  K.  Polk,  from  1845-1849.  This  honor  was 
bestowed  for  the  interest  of  Vice  President  Dallas  in  the 
admission  of  Texas  to  the  Federal  Union,  and  the  influ- 
ence which  such  proposed  admission  had  upon  the  elec- 
tion of  Polk  and  Dallas. 

We  are  here  in  the  city  of  Dallas  in  attendance  upon 
the  seventy-second  annual  communication  of  the  Sover- 
eign Grand  Lodge  of  Odd  Fellows.  In  consequence  of 
this  gathering,  hundreds  of  strangers,  as  guests,  are  domi- 
ciled here  for  a  week,  and  we  are  all  graciously  received 
by  the  citizens.  The  city  is  in  holiday  attire,  as  this 
assembly  is  to  them  an  occasion  of  much  importance,  and 
is  cherished  by  the  residents  as  a  distinguished  honor. 

Our  headquarters  are  at  the  Oriental  Hotel,  a  large, 
new  structure,  in  the  Renaissance  style  of  architecture, 
and  which  cost  $600,000.  It  is  under  the  management 
of  Mr.  A.  Soule,  of  New  England  birth,  who  proves  him- 
self a  host  indeed,  and  demonstrates,  by  an  excellent 
table  service,  courtesies  to  guests,  and  personal  attention  to 
individual  comforts  of  his  sojourners,  that  he  knows  how 
to  keep  a  hotel.  Few  hotels,  in  many  of  the  larger  cities 
of  the  Union,  can  equal  "  The  Oriental "  in  its  conven- 
iences, and  its  capacity.  It  is  the  finest  hostelry  in  the 


HOT  SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS  I2i 

southwest,  it  is  built  of  brick,  is  six  stories  high,  covering 
an  entire  block,  is  magnificent  in  its  furnishings,  and  is 
heated  by  steam  and  lighted  by  electricity.  It  is  centrally 
located,  and  is  thus  convenient  to  all  desirable  parts  of 
the  city. 

Dallas  is  very  much  unlike  our  northern  and  western 
cities,  lacking  in  the  finish  of  its  streets,  uniformity  in  the 
character  and  beauty  of  its  private  and  public  buildings, 
and  in  the  extent  and  conduct  of  its  trade.  Nevertheless 


ORIENTAL  HOTEL,  DALLAS. 


122  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

it  is  an  active,  pretty  southern  city,  is  populous  and  grow- 
ing, and  has  a  future  full  of  promise.  Like  other  parts 
of  the  south,  due  to  the  warm  climate,  most  of  its  build- 
ings, and  especially  its  homes,  are  without  basements, 
and  are  set  on  low,  brick  pillars,  or  wooden  posts,  allow- 
ing a  free  current  of  air  to  pass  between  the  ground  and 
lower  floor.  The  city  has  a  large  Negro  population,  and 
these  and  the  poorer  classes  of  the  whites,  as  before  noted 
of  other  sections  of  this  southland,  occupy  humble  homes 
in  low,  small,  inferior  buildings,  many  of  which  are 
reduced  to  a  single  room.  These  homes  appear  humble 
and  plain  indeed,  to  eyes  accustomed  to  see  the  poorer 
people  of  the  north  occupying  far  superior  dwellings. 

This  city  is  situated  on  Trinity  river,  which  is  formed 
by  the  united  waters  of  the  West  Fork  of  the  Trinity 
river,  the  Elm  river  and  Mountain  creek,  which  flow  in 
from  the  westward.  Trinity  river,  at  the  site  where  Dal- 
las is  located,  is  crossed  by  the  Texas  and  Pacific  railway. 
This  city  is  six  hundred  and  sixty  miles  from  St.  Louis, 
and  is  three  hundred  and  fifteen  from  Galveston  in  the 
south  of  Texas  on  the  Gulf  of  Mexico.  The  spot  occu- 
pied by  Dallas  is  especially  advantageous  for  a  city, 
being  situated  on  a  level  plateau,  elevated  from  twenty  to 
thirty  feet  above  the  Trinity  river,  on  the  right  bank  of 
which  it  is  built.  It  is,  in  many  ways,  a  new  city.  The 
first  settlement  here  was  affected  so  recently  as  1840,  and 
in  1870,  when  the  State  of  Texas  was  readmitted  to  the 
Union,  from  which  it  had  seceded  on  account  of  the  Civil 
war,  there  was  a  resident  population  in  Dallas  of  only 


HOT   SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


123 


1700.  In  1880  this  population  had  increased  to  10,368  ; 
in  1890  to  38,067,  and  is  now  about  50,000,  exhibiting  a 
rapid  growth,  and  which  has  been  healthy,  both  from  a 
social  and  business  standpoint.  The  census  figures  of 
1890  gave  to  this  city  the  position  of  first  rank  in  the 
State.  It  is  still  rapidly  growing,  and  because  of  its 
especially  favorable  location,  it  is  a  sharp  rival  with  sister 
southern  cities  for  future  supremacy,  with  the  odds  decid- 
edly in  its  favor.  While  many  very  small  and  inferior 
buildings  are  to  be  found  here,  yet  it  is  pleasant  to  note 
that  these  are,  from  time  to  time,  giving  way  to  more 
modern  and  stately  blocks,  and  there  is  a  constant  improve- 
ment in  the  style  of  the  homes,  and  a  number  of  fine  resi- 
dences adorn  some  of  the  streets. 

Liberal  allowance  in  the  layout  of  this  city  has  been 
made,  its  streets  and  avenues  being  from  eighty  to  a  hun- 
dred and  twenty  feet  wide,  and  these  run  mostly  at  right 
angles.  Its  industrial  interests  involve  large  investments 
of  capital,  and  these,  already  numerous,  are  constantly 
increasing,  and  by  them  employment  is  furnished  to  large 
numbers  of  both  sexes.  These  industries  represent  a 
variety  of  occupations,  averaging  well  with  the  diversified 
pursuits  of  many  older  cities  of  wider  opportunities. 
There  are  numerous  prolific  cotton  fields  within  the  limits 
of  the  city,  and  this  native  product  is  here  being  passed 
through  the  various  stages  of  preparation  in  order  to  place 
it  on  the  market  ready  for  sale  from  the  store  counter. 

A  new  and  important  industry  in  this  city,  established 
within  the  past  year  or  two,  is  the  slaughtering  of  beeves 


1 24  A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

and  hogs,  the  stockyards  embracing  a  considerable  extent 
of  land.  This  occupation  is  growing,  and  an  important 
feature  of  it  is  the  packing  and  hermetical  sealing  of 
meats  for  foreign  and  domestic  trade. 

Trinity  river,  on  which  the  city  of  Dallas  is  located,  is 
a  narrow  stream,  and  is  navigated  by  small  steamboats 
of  peculiar  mechanism.  It  is  navigable  south  for  a  dis- 
tance of  twenty-two  miles  towards  the  gulf  of  Mexico, 
Dallas  being  now  at  the  head  of  its  navigation.  The 
possibilities  of  this  water-course  above  Dallas  to  future 
commercial  interests  are  most  promising,  and  much  has 
been  done,  at  private  expense,  to  increase  its  navigable 
resources.  Above  here,  along  the  banks  of  this  river,  and 
extending  back  and  over  a  wide  territory,  are  large  for- 
ests of  excellent  trees,  and  with  this  river  widened  and 
dredged  so  as  to  float  this  timber  to  Dallas,  from  whence 
it  could  be  forwarded  to  various  centres  of  trade,  saw- 
mills and  planing  mills  might  be  erected  and  operated  to 
a  good  profit,  thus  adding  to  this  locality  and  to  this  city 
an  important  lumber  business. 

The  public  departments  of  the  city  are  well  organized, 
and,  in  their  equipment,  are  of  the  latest  kind.  Promi- 
nent of  these  is  the  fire  department,  which  is  the  pride  of 
the  State,  and  it  has  the  Gamewell  system  of  fire  alarm, 
thus  giving  to  the  city  prompt  and  reliable  notification  of 
a  fire.  This  department  is  supplemented  with  a  large 
and  well  equipped  Municipal  Water  plant,  with  a  daily 
pumping  capacity  of  27,000,000  gallons.  This  city  also 
has  an  excellent  sewerage  system  with  over  thirty  miles  of 


126 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


laid  sewers.  In  addition  to  the  public  water  supply  there 
are  several  private  supplies,  including  a  number  of 
artesian  wells,  extending  to  a  depth  of  from  700  to  800 
feet,  and  from  these  several  sources  the  residents  have 
an  ample  supply  of  pure,  soft,  clear  water. 

A  variety  of  organizations,  including  the  leading  secret 
orders,  an  influential  commercial  club,  and  other  organi- 


EPISCOPAL  COLLEGE, 
DALLAS. 

zations  for  social,  literary,  and  philanthropic  ends,  gives 
to  the  city  an  interchange  of  association  and  a  develop- 
ment of  society  of  high  beneficial  influence. 

In  educational  matters  the  city  is  wide-awake  and  prog- 
ressive, the  public  school  system  is  broad  and  liberally 
supported,  and  there  are  a  number  of  private  academies 
and  colleges  for  higher  education.  The  different  relig- 


HOT  SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


127 


ious  denominations  are  active  in  Christian  and  charitable 
work,  with  fine  church  edifices  conveniently  located,  and 
the  professions  are  prominently  in  evidence  by  gymnastic 
associations,  art  and  musical  clubs,  etc. 

For  a  city  of  so  recent  date,  Dallas  has  a  number  of 
fine  business  blocks  and  public  buildings  which  would  do 
credit  and  be  an  ornament  to  any  municipality.  Of  these 
the  Court  House  is  the  most  prominent,  and  in  architec- 
ture, in  appointments,  in  completeness  and  conven- 
iences, is  an  undisputed  model.  It  was  erected  at  a  cost 
of  $350,000.  Among  other  of  the  more  noted  of  the 
public  buildings  are  a  Club  House,  costing  $88,000;  an 
Opera  House,  $125,000;  and  a  Mechanics  Exchange  and 
City  Hall,  $83,000.  Shade  trees,  in  the  residential  parts 
of  the  city,  add  beauty  to  the  appearance  of  the  streets, 
and  give  comfort  to  pedestrians.  Although  situated  so 
far  south,  Dallas  has  a  comfortable  and  equable  climate, 
and  is  regarded  above  the  average  as  a  healthy  city. 

It  is  also  the  greatest  jobbing  centre  of  the  whole 
southwest,  and  is  the  most  important  railway  centre  in 
this  section.  Five  trunk  lines  of  railway  enter  this  city, 
radiating  to  all  important  points,  and  emphasize  the  com- 
mercial position  of  the  city.  The  commercial  interests 
of  the  city  are  further  subserved  by  an  excellent  and  com- 
plete banking  system,  a  number  of  banks,  of  national 
reputation  and  large  business,  being  active  in  the  mer- 
cantile affairs  of  Dallas. 

In  literature  Dallas  is  foremost,  the  character  and  num- 
ber of  its  newspapers  and  periodicals  being  in  the  lead 


HOT    SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


129 


as  compared  with  any  other  part  of  the  vast  State  in 
which  it  is  situated.  The  daily  papers  published  here 
are  bright,  newsy,  and  well-edited,  and  are  metropolitan 
journals  of  merit. 

Situated  here  are  the  headquarters  of  the  Texas 
State  Fair  and  Dallas  Exposition.  This  is  a  large  and 
prosperous  association,  centraly  located,  with  an  exten- 
sive property,  embracing  one  hundred  and  twenty-two 


GRAND  STAND  AT  FAIR  GROUNDS, 
DALLAS. 

acres  of  land,  supplied  with  the  needed  buildings,  all  of 
modern  design,  and  the  entire  equipment  is  maintained  in 
prime  condition.  Conspicuous  of  the  buildings  are  a  large 
horticultural  hall,  an  ample  machinery  hall,  a  com- 
modious general  main  building,  and  stalls  sufficient 
to  accommodate  thousands  of  head  of  live  stock.  Within 
these  premises  are  five  miles  of  graveled  drives,  fine 
smooth,  level  walks,  and  an  unsurpassed  race  course.  This 


1 3o 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


property  cost  over  a  half  million  of  dollars,  and  the  annual 
exhibitions  of  the  society  are  of  a  high  order,  are  emi- 
nently successful,  and  are  attended  by  from  200,000  to 
400,000  persons,  not  a  few  of  whom  come  a  distance  of 
many  miles. 

From  this  outline  some  conception  may  be  had  of  the 
rank  and  prospective  future  of  this  aggressive  southwest- 
ern city,  which  now,  in  the  southwest,  stands  unrivalled 
in  social,  commercial  and  educational  lines. 

Our  leisure  time  of  our  limited  pilgrimage  in  Dallas  is 
fully  improved  in  adventure  and  sight-seeing.  New 
scenes  and  experiences,  pleasurable  and  instructive,  are 
constantly  coming  to  our  view.  The  city  has  an  equip- 
ment of  street  cars,  circling  the  city  and  extending  into 
the  suburbs,  traversing  a  distance  of  about  twenty-eight 
miles.  By  these  we  cover  considerable  territory,  aiding 
us  materially  in  prospecting.  These  cars  are  indeed 
unique,  novel  in  their  operation,  and  are  not  maintained 
up  to  the  highest  standard  of  appearance.  They  are  all 
of  the  "bob-tail"  style,  each  passenger  serving  as  his 
own  conductor,  paying  fare  through  a  slot  into  a  small 
box  at  the  front  of  the  car,  also  reversing  the  seats 
for  riding  in  the  direction  in  which  the  car  is  going,  or 
serving  one's  self  to  any  other  needed  courtesy  in  con- 
nection with  the  ride. 

All  of  these  cars  are  not  electric,  far  from  it ;  for  there 
are  several  lines  of  horse  cars.  Horse  cars,  did  we  say  ? 
we  must  be  pardoned,  for  we  should  have  said  "  mule  cars." 
Little,  dilapidated,  dingy  cars, —  how  queerly  they  looked 


132 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


to  our  northern  eyes,  as,  in  turn,  they  came  jauntingly 
down  the  street,  each  drawn  by  a  pair  of  lank,  diminutive 
mules,  driven  by  ununiformed  drivers  who,  by  the  aid  of 
a  formidable  lash  attached  to  a  huge  whip-stock,  obtained 
from  these  "  long-eared  "  animals  effective  service.  These 
cars,  too,  are  "bob-tail." 

By  means  of  these  cars,  however,  notwithstanding  their 
"  outs,"  we  visit  many  interesting  interior  sections  of  the 
city,  and  also  penetrate  into  its  rural  retreats.  Our  rides 
into  the  suburban  districts  show  to  us  a  broad  expanse  of 
territory,  but  sparsely  occupied,  representing  residences 
and  varied  industries.  Cotton  fields,  with  their  blooms, 
and  with  their  white  woolly  heads,  interspersing  here 
and  there,  gives  fine  effect  to  the  beauty  of  the  out-lying 
country.  One  of  the  more  noted  of  the  industries  visited 
was  "  Munger's  Cotton  Gin."  This,  although  not  a  new 
device,  was  of  itself  decidedly  new,  comprehending  the 
old-fashioned  cotton  gin  in  its  accomplishment,  but  so 
improved  and  amplified  as  to  be  anew  invention  of  exten- 
sive utility  and  great  practicability.  Without  attempting 
a  description  of  its  mechanism,  it  is  of  interest  to  say  that 
this  machine  is  located  in  a  building  erected  expressly 
for  it,  to  which  is  attached  a  roofed-in  driveway.  A 
wagon  loaded  with  the  raw  product  of  cotton,  right  from 
the  cotton  field,  drawn  to  this  building  and  under  its 
driveway,  has  lowered  into  it  an  immense  tube  connected 
direct  with  this  cotton  gin.  By  means  of  steam  power 
the  machinery  is  operated,  and  through  the  tube  the  load 
of  cotton  is  drawn  up  and  into  the  cotton  gin.  This 


'34 

improved  machine  separates  the  cotton  seed  from  the 
cotton  heads,  picking  it  all  apart,  and  then  passes  the 
cotton  on  into  a  hydraulic  compress  of  tremendous  power, 
there  it  is  made  into  a  cotton  bale,  covered,  strapped ; 
and  prepared  ready  to  forward  to  the  cotton  mill.  Thus 
from  the  loaded  wagon  direct  from  the  field,  this  wonder- 
ful machine  takes  the  cotton  and  holds  it  until  it  is  a  cot- 
ton bale  ready  for  shipment.  It  is  an  invention  promis- 
ing great  advantage  to  this  southern  industry,  and  was 
the  result  of  many  years  of  patient  study  and  labor  on 
the  part  of  its  inventor. 

A  visit  to  the  stock-yards  and  meat-packing  establish- 
ments, on  the  outskirts  of  the  city  was  very  interesting, 
and  revealed  to  us  the  operation  of  this  comparatively  new 
enterprise.  At  these  stock-yards  may  be  seen  fine  speci- 
mens of  the  Texan  steer,  with  long,  beautifully  curved  and 
wide  spreading  horns.  These  horns  from  the  slaughtered 
cattle  are  utilized  in  different  ways.  Some  of  them,  pol- 
ished to  a  high  degree,  are  wrought  in  exquisite  designs 
into  chairs,  rockers,  stools,  hat-trees,  and  other  household 
devices  of  great  beauty. 

A  profound  study  in  this  city,  as  indeed  throughout 
the  south,  is  the  Negro  population,  or,  as  we  would  say 
at  home,  the  colored  people.  But  the  Negroes  of  the  south 
and  the  colored  people  of  the  north,  while  belonging  to 
the  same  race,  are  essentially  two  different  classes.  The 
colored  problem  of  the  south  is  a  serious  one,  and  the 
future  of  this  race  in  this  section  will  be  interestingly 
watched  by  the  entire  country.  With  the  liberties 


!36  A   BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

accorded  to  the  blacks  of  the  north,  the  unlimited  school 
privileges  extended  to  them,  the  unrestricted  freedom  of 
use  of  all  public  conveyances,  in  fact,  in  all  public  mat- 
ters, enjoying  equal  rights  with  the  whites,  they  have  thus 
had  bestowed  upon  them  social  and  educational  advan- 
tages which  have  elevated  them  to  a  high  plane.  Not  so 
with  the  Negroes  of  the  south,  whose  environment,  meas- 
ured from  any  standpoint,  has  been  directly  opposite. 
Originally  servitors  of  toil,  knowing  only  masters  who 
owned  them  as  other  chattels  of  barter  and  sale,  without 
educational  opportunities,  these  sable  children  of  the 
south  have  been  trained  to  a  far  different  life.  Emanci- 
pation liberated  them  from  an  involuntary  servitude,  but 
it  did  not  remove  the  social  barriers  which  for  years  have 
isolated  and  ostricised  these  people.  Largely  due  to 
these  humiliating  and  separating  circumstances,  the 
southern  Negro  early  learned  to  disregard  honor,  chastity, 
and  the  common  rights  of  others,  and  thus  lapsed  into 
a  laxity  of  good  manners,  and  an  almost  utter  disregard  of 
morals, — a  nearly  total  disrespect  for  person  and  property 
has  resulted. 

A  great  change,  however,  in  the  social  condition  of 
these  southern  blacks  has  been  gradually  growing  during 
the  past  quarter  of  a  century,  or  a  little  more,  due  chiefly 
to  educational  advantages  which  have  been  extended  to 
them.  They  are,  notwithstanding  this  satisfactory  fact, 
still  an  illiterate  people,  taken  as  a  whole,  relegated  to  a 
life  by  themselves,  and  it  will  be  many  years  yet  before 
they  will  attain  to  a  realization  of  the  high  type  of  social 


HOT  SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


137 


existence  enjoyed  by  the  more  fortunate  colored  people  of 
the  north. 

Whatever  else  may  be  said  of  the  southern  Negroes,  it 
is  true  that  they  are  kind-hearted,  susceptible  to  sympa- 
thy, appreciate  kindness,  and  a  pleasant  word  addressed 
to  them  is  "  like  apples  of  gold  in  pictures  of  silver," 
and  elicits  a  ready  response.  In  their  lives,  their  man- 
ners, their  actions,  they  are,  in  an  extreme  sense,  a  pecu- 
liar people,  ludicrous  and  marvellous.  They  are  pathetic, 
enthusiastic,  fervent,  and  naturally  religious. 


BAPTIST  CHU 
DALLAS. 


ijS  •<*    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 

Notice  of  "  colored  camp-meeting  "  services,  conducted 
by  "Sin- Killer  Griffin,"  coming  to  our  attention  by  dis- 
tributed hand-bills,  we  determined  on  a  visit  to  the  tent 
where  these  services  were  held.  Proceeding  thither  on 
Sunday  evening,  we  found,  under  a  wide  spreading  can- 
opy, a  large  open-air  auditorium,  with  seats  rudely  con- 
structed of  hard,  coarse,  unplaned  planks.  There  was  a 
goodly  assemblage  of  "  de  cullud  folks,"  together  with 
quite  a  sprinkling  of  whites,  or  rather  a  company  of  whites 
seated  by  themselves, —  this  latter  class,  as  was  plainly 
evident,  present  from  curiosity  and  to  watch  the  singular 
proceedings.  Occupying  an  elevated  platform  was  a  mus- 
cular, black  as  ebony,  burly  Negro  preacher,  weighing 
upwards  of  two  hundred  pounds,  and  who  titled  himself 
"  Sin-Killer  Griffin."  Born  in  slavery,  as  he  told  us,  he 
was  illiterate  and  individually  distinctive,  yet  was,  never- 
theless, well  versed  in  the  Scriptures,  and  had  a  ready 
flow  of  speech.  In  a  circle  back  of  him  was  a  company  of 
about  twenty  Negroes  of  both  sexes,  of  varying  shades, 
who,  to  the  accompaniment  of  a  small  cabinet  organ  which 
had  seen  better  days,  rendered  "sacred  songs  "  unique, 
and  which  were,  unquestionably,  of  pure  southern  planta- 
tion character.  As  they  sang,  every  muscle  of  their  bodies, 
and  each  part  of  their  physical  organism,  seemed  to 
move  in  unison  with  their  singing,  while  with  their  feet 
they  made  the  platform  on  which  they  sat  tremble  as  they 
"  beat  out "  the  time.  The  composition  of  these  "  jubilee 
hymns  "  was  indisputably  original,  and  one  could  hardly 
refrain  from  forgetting  the  intended  sacredness  of  the  occa- 


HOT   SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


139 


sion  as  these  remarkable  exercises  were  rendered.  As  sam- 
ple of  the  words  sung,  the  following  is  an  illustration  : 

ROLL  ON*  THE  GOSPEL  CHARIOT. 

Roll  on  the  Gospel  chariot  and  crush  out  Satan's  plans, 

The  Savior  calls,  "come  view  my  wounds,  my  feet,  and  bleeding 

hands; 

For  you  I  bore  the  cruel  cross,  for  you  the  death  and  shame, 
For  you  the  painful  crown  of  thorns,  for  you  the  triumph  came." 

Chorus. —  Get  on  the  Gospel  chariot,  yes  get  on  board  to-night, 
Bells  are  ringing,  train  is  waiting,  'twill  soon  be  out 

of  sight. 

O,  get  on  the  Gospel  chariot,  yes  get  on  board  to-night, 
Bells  are  ringing,  train  is  waiting,  'twill  soon  be  out 
of  sight. 

Roll  on  the  Gospel  chariot,  the  gates  are  open  wide, 
Come  weary,  doubting  sinner,  come,  for  you  the  Savior  died; 
With  bated  breath    the  angels  wait,  all  heaven  bids    you  come, 
They  open  wide  the  golden  gate,  here's  pardon,  rest,  and  home. 

Chorus. —  Roll  on  the  Gospel  chariot,  etc. 

Roll  on  the  Gospel  chariot,  and  call  the  wand'rers  in, 
The  Savior  died  and  rose  again  to  save  a  world  from  sin ; 
Come  sing  the  old,  old  story,  and  make  the  anthems  ring, 
We'll  join  the  throng,  and  chant  the  song  of  triumph  to  our  king . 

Chorus. —  Roll  on  the  Gospel  chariot,  etc. 

Over  and  over  again,  twenty  or  thirty  times,  was  this 
chorus  sung  and  resung,  to  the  interspersed  verses 
repeated,  the  whole  life  of  the  singers  being  engulfed  in 
the  sentiment  of  the  "  hymn."  To  show  the  variety  and 


140 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


unlikeness  of  these  melodies,  in  finish  and  in  thought,  we 
give  another  sample.  The  verses  of  this  one  was  sung 
as  a  solo,  or  rather,  in  a  cracked  voice,  howled,  by  a 
sable  so-called  "jubilee  singer,"  and  ran  as  follows: 

TRAVELING  PILGRIM  SONG. 

{Song  Composed  by  R.  H.  Ha-wkin.   Containing  Bible  Proofs.} 
Chorus.     Oh,  you  must  be  born  again, 
Oh,  you  must  be  born  again. 

If  you  had  a  hundred  sheep  and  one  of  them  should  go 
astray,  would  you  leave  the  ninety  and  nine,  go  into  the  valley 
and  search  until  you  find  him,  and  when  you  find  him  put  him 
on  your  shoulder,  bring  him  back  to  the  fold  again  and  help  me 
to  rejoice  ?  I  done  found  the  sheep  which  was  lost. 
Chorus. — 

There  was  another  man  in  the  city  of  Babylon  whose  name 
was  Nebuchadnezzar,  taken  those  three  little  Hebrew  boys, 
Shadrach,  Meshach  and  Abednego,  and  they  cast  them  into  the 
fire,  and  the  King  could  not  rest  all  night  long.  The  King  came 
down  right  early  in  the  morning  and  looked  into  the  burning 
furnace.  Look  a-here  King,  did'nt  we  cast  in  three.  The  King 
said  yes.  We  cast  in  three  but  behold  I  see  four  walking  in  the 
fire  and  the  fourth  one  looks  like  the  Son  of  Man.  I  heard  them 
children  begin  to  sing,  I  know  I've  been  redeemed. 
Chorus. — 

Nicodemus  being  King  Ruler  of  the  Jews  and  the  same  came 
to  him  by  night,  saying  Rabbi,  we  know  thou  art  a  Teacher 
come  from  God,  no  man  can  do  the  miracles  that  thou  does 
except  God  be  with  him.  Lord  God  said  unto  Nicodemus 
except  a  man  be  born  again  he  can't  enter  into  the  kingdom  of 
Heaven,  and  won't  that  be  a  time. 
Chorus. — 


HOT  SPRINGS    TO   DALLAS 


141 


Well,  I  tell  you  how  that  hypocrit  do  go  ride  about  the 
neighborhood,  and  talk  about  you,  talk  about  Sally,  talk  about 
Jane,  sure  tell  Jane  don't  you  call  my  name,  under  these  things 
of  God  I  will  trust.  I  would  tell  her  so  myself,  but  I  am  afraid  I 
will  make  a  fuss,  help  me  to  read  on  down. 

Chorus. — 

Read  the  scripture  I  am  told,  about  the  garment  that  Achan 
stole,  he  hid  it  in  the  thistles,  the  thorns  and  the  hedges  down  in 
the  camp,  beneath  the  golden  wedge.  I  got  my  stickel  steeple 
and  my  staff.  Moses  ground  up  the  golden  calf  and  put  it  into 
the  water,  turn  bi'ter  as  gall.  The  children  of  Israel  couldn't 
drink  it  at  all.  Help  me  to  read  on  down. 

Chorus, — 

And  the  preaching  !  Such  we  never  heard  before  !  To 
us  there  was  "  nothing  like  it  in  the  heavens  above,  in  the 
earth  beneath,  or  in  the  waters  under  the  earth."  The 
preacher,  in  all  the  enthusiastic  effectiveness  characteristic 
of  his  race,  discoursed  to  his  hearers, —  now  in  serious 
vein,  now  in  comical  imagery,  and  again  in  the  most 
pathetic  monotone, —  producing  pronounced  results  on 
many  of  these  impetuous,  susceptible  black  attendants, 
throwing  them  into  hysterical  convulsions,  and  in  some 
instances  causing  them  to  become  so  rigidly  stiff  as  to 
require  their  being  carried  from  the  scene  to  the  green- 
sward of  the  adjoining  lot,  leaving  them  there  to  "  come 
to  "  in  time  to  seek  home  before  midnight.  And  thus 
these  strange  exercises  went  on,  and  we  were  involunta- 
rily impelled  to  attend  on  a  second  occasion.  Grotesque, 
laughable,  and  yet,  withal,  sacredly  pathetic,  these  "  col- 


I42 


A    BRIEF    TRIP    TO    THE    SOUTHWEST 


ored  camp-meeting  "  services,  in  this  far-away  southwest- 
ern city,  gave  us  an  experience  as  novel  as  it  was 
unfamiliar  to  us. 

Much  more  did  we  observe  and  enjoy  in  Dallas.  From 
arrival  to  departure  we  were  accorded  an  open,  free,  gen- 
uine, southern  hospitality ;  we  found  the  people  affable, 
gracious  and  generous,  and  alert  to  make  every  moment 
of  our  sojourn  agreeable.  And  so  the  days  of  our  "  week 
in  Dallas  "  passed  all  too  quickly,  and  brimful  of  delight- 
ful experiences,  as  they  were,  they  will  remain  fragrant 
in  memory  while  reason  lasts.  The  week  gone,  our 
thoughts,  instinctively,  turn  to  home,  loved  ones,  business 
and  our  daily  haunts ;  we  say  farewell,  and  quit  these 
varied  scenes  which  have  furnished  to  us  naught  but 
pleasure  and  instruction. 

Departing  from  Dallas,  we  proceed  homeward  over  the 
same  route  by  which  we  came,  except  the  side  trip  to 
Hot  Springs.  The  ever  dissolving  views  of  nature, 
spread  out  like  a  grand  panorama,  evidencing  the  crea- 
tive power  of  the  Supreme  Father,  and  showing  the 
genius  and  mechanical  skill  of  man,  are  as  entertaining 
to  us  in  rotrospect  as  they  were  enchanting  to  us  on  our 
outward  trip.  Each  connecting  railroad  by  which  we 
ride  is  of  the  best  in  the  great  railway  system  of  the 
Republic,  and  the  courtesies  and  attentions  of  the  offi- 
cials are  constant  and  unreserved.  Our  trip  was  arranged 
by  Mr.  Charles  A.  Florence,  the  New  England  Agent  of 
the  Illinois  Central  railroad,  who  accompanied  us  from 
Boston  to  St.  Louis.  His  personal  presence  added,  in  no 


HOT   SPRINGS    TO    DALLAS  1^3 

small  degree,  to  the  pleasure  of  the  journey,  and  he  was 
untiringly  vigilant  in  catering  to  our  individual  comfort. 

With  these  delightful  experiences,  narrated  in  this 
descriptive  outline  of  our  journey,  we  venture  the  asser- 
tion that,  for  pleasure,  comfort,  and  unsurpassed  natural 
scenery,  there  is  no  better  route  or  system  of  connecting 
railways  than  those  by  which  we  travelled,  for  the  tourist 
who  makes  a  long  or 

A  BRIEF  TRIP  TO  THE  SOUTHWEST. 


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